70 



THE CENTRAL PROVINCE 



northern extremity of Napoleon Gulf, which is one of the most beautiful 

 land- and water-scapes of the world, there are bold hills which come down 

 almost cliff-like towards the lake shore. The traveller advancing towards 

 what seems to be the end of the gulf is aware, first of all, of a long row 

 of white fangs, the remains of a rocky barrier which no doubt preceded 

 the existing Kipon Falls as the gateway of the Nile. These rocks are 

 whitened almost to the whiteness of snow by the guano of innumerable 

 water-birds, chiefly cormorants and darters. Passing to the left or to the 

 right of this row of white fangs, one lands either at the Bugungu 





59. THE lUi'UN I'ALLS AT THE JUlITil OF THE NILE 



(Uganda) or Jiuja (Busoga) side of the Ripon Falls. A sharp turn of the 

 narrow gulf to the north-west suddenly reveals a swift-flowing current and 

 an irregular curtain of spray broken at intervals by densely wooded 

 islets crowned with tall palms. The banks of the river — as it has 

 now become — are perhaps 200 feet above the water, and are densely 

 wooded. A mile back on either side, however, from the water's edge, the 

 place of the woodland is taken by agreeable downs of short grass, studded 

 with occasional trees. It would be difficult to find more gracious land- 

 scapes than may be observed in the vicinity of the Eipon Falls. The 

 Nile at its birth is perhaps 300 yards wide. The falls are probably not 



