CHARACTERS. 



789 



greatness erery wliere pays for vul. 

 gar admiration. The town is sirp- 

 plied with water from a hilJ, by a 

 lofty aqueduct, of two tier of brick 

 arches, built in a light and not ine- 

 legant style. The public garden, 

 which contains between three and 

 four acres of ground, is situated on 

 the sea side ; the walks run in 

 straight lines, and are shaded by 

 mangoe trees, whose foliage is ex- 

 tremely luxuriant, and by its dark 

 bue peculiarly calculated to refresh 

 the eye, pained by thfe constant 

 glare of the sun. At the extremity 

 of the garden next the beach, is a 

 flagged terrace, and a room hung 

 with views of the country, and 

 other curiosities ; a fountain which 

 throws up a jet d^eau waters the 

 garden, and cools the air. In the 

 winter, the garden is entirely de- 

 serted ; the ladies then keep con- 

 stantly in their houses, and the men, 

 wanting that first inducement, the 

 charms of female society, feel no 

 inclination for a barren promenade; 

 but, following the example of the 

 fair sex, pass their time in listless in- 

 dolence, and, like the swallow, re- 

 main in a state of torpidity till the 

 return of spring. 



Those gradations of fortune, 

 M'hich exist in, and, indeed, appear 

 to be the necessary consequences 

 of, a well-regulated society, are not 

 to be found in the IJrasils ; the only 

 distinction is the rich and poor ; the 



former are prond, though ignorant, 

 and ostentatious, though avaricious; 

 and the superabundance of all the 

 mere necessaries of life alone pre- 

 vents the latter from being indigent 

 beggars. Those who can acquire 

 half a doxen slaves, live in idleness 

 upon the wages of their labour, and 

 stroll the streets in all the solemnity 

 of self-importance. In their gene- 

 ral expenccs the rich are penurious, 

 and the marriage of their children 

 alone seems to thaAV tiieir frozen 

 generosity ; on these occasions they 

 run into the contrary extreme, and 

 ridiculous extravagance becomes the 

 order of the day. I have seen a 

 bridal chemise, the needle-work of 

 which had cost fifty pounds, and the 

 rest of the marriage paraphernalia 

 was in the same proportion of ex- 

 pence. Their entertainments are 

 profuse in proportion as they are 

 rare, but seldom possess any title to 

 elegance, and sometimes want even 

 common cleanliness to recommend 

 them to an English appetite *, The 

 carriages in use among the rich, are 

 cabriolets, drawn by mules, and 

 chairs curtained round, in which 

 they are carried through the streets 

 by negro slaves, the latter are also 

 female conveyances. Gaming, the 

 peculiar vice of idleness, is preva- 

 lent among the men. Pharaoh is 

 their favourite game, and the fickle 

 goddess is here pursued with as much 

 avidity as at Brook's or Almack's ; 

 3 E 3 it 



• In describing the manners of the Brasilinns, it will, I trust, be recollected, 

 that I speak generally : divested, as I hope I am, of national prejudice. I suppose 

 the existence of an universal standard of social manners, which, though very far 

 from beinj; arrived at by any nation in the world, is more nearly approached by 

 some than by others, and if, perhaps, already reached by a few more happy ini- 

 viduals of every nation. Among the Brasilians, though the general H)ass stand 

 very low upon the scale of refinement, liie proportion of these superior minds, is, 

 perhaps, equal to what any other country can boast; and I am happy to beaf 

 ttbliniony, that at Rio dc .Tauciro, refined hospitality, elegant taste, and politeness, 

 devoid of formality, arc the conspicuous characteristics of several individuiUs. 



