__ their libraries. 
Fe a 
i ~ 
MISCELLANEOUS ESSAYS: 
exceeded, But in fact the luxuries 
and opportunities at Paris are al. 
Jowed, by all candid judges, infi- 
nitely to surpass those ot the Eng- 
lish capital, in the variety, and the 
cheap rates at which they may be 
procured. The superior dryness 
of the air also exhilarates the spi- 
rits, aud gives a keener relish to 
many enjoyments. 
The well known work, called 
¢ The Almanach des Gourmands,” 
by Grimod de la Reyniere, may 
serve in some measure as a text book 
in treating of the luxuries of Paris. 
But it is in so many hands, that a 
few extracts, or rather remarks, 
suggested by its perusal, may suf. 
fice. ‘That work, indeed, only em- 
braces one branch of luxury, but a 
beanch particularly cultivated by the 
new rich; whose cellars and lar- 
ders are far better replenished than 
This taste has be- 
come so general, that many book- 
sellers have become traiteurs, and 
find the corporeal food far more 
profitable than the mental. 
The old new year, the first of 
January, is stil the season of little 
gifts, chiefly eatables and sweet. 
meats, for which last the Rue des 
Lombards is deservedly famous. 
The best beef at Paris is that of 
Auvergne and Cotentin, and the 
aloya, which seems to be the inner 
part of our sirloin, is regarded as 
the most, chosen morsel; but the 
French custom of sticking such 
picces with little morsels of lard, is 
to an English palate truly nauseous, 
and irreconcileable with any just 
principles of cookery, as it dimi- 
nishes the juice, and injures the 
flavour of the méat. When M. 
Grimod supposes that beef-sieaks 
form the chief dish of an English 
dinner, he shews a ridiculous igao- 
Vor. XLVIII. 
rance of our customs. The best 
yeal is that of Pontoise, not far from 
Paris ; but as they are strangers to 
our mode of nourishing the animals, 
this food is regarded as of difficult 
or irregular digestion, nor can it 
ever be compared with English veal. 
Our author says, that the French 
calves are fed with cream and bis- 
cuits, which may account for this 
quality. Thelamb is alsoso young, 
so insipid, so vapid, that it bears no 
resemblance to the delicate juices 
and fiavour of the English. The 
inutton is from the Ardennes, but 
it is as rare as’ Welch mutton in 
London. In general the mutton 
cannot be praised; and while the 
French import the Spanish breed on 
account of the wool, they ought 
also to import some other for the 
meat, Nor does their pork seem 
equal to the English. 
The game is, in general, superior 
to that of England; and the red 
partridge forms an elegant rea 
gale. The pheasant has become exe 
tremely rare, the pheasantries hav- 
ing been destroyed with the other 
marks of rank. The quails in the 
neighbourhood of Paris are excels 
lent. 
Young turkies, of the size of a 
large fowl, are very common, though 
somewhat higher in price; and 
poultry in general is about one 
third cheaper than in London, if 
bought in the Jarge markets. 
Among the vegetables, spinach is 
particularly well cooked, and not 
diluted with water as in London, 
As the leaves take up much space, 
it is always sold at the green-shops 
simply boiled, and is afterwards 
cooked according to the fancy of 
the purchaser. The vinegar put 
into the sauee for cauliflower de. 
stroysits favour; and in general a 
37 mixture 
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