MISCELLANEOUS ESSAYS. 
decorated with small images, and 
real or artilicial flowers. images of 
orcelain seem particularly adapted 
Fo: this purpose; and the proper 
decorations are peculiar objects of 
good taste. In England it is not 
‘uncommon to see a splendid silver 
vase, containing a few oranges, or 
a sallad, placed in the middle of the 
table, with, perhaps, two smaller 
vases at either extremity, filled with 
similar articles, or with bottles of 
favourite wine. Nothing cau be 
more void of taste, as the contents 
do not correspond to the richness 
of the vases, and a statue of clay 
might as well be mounted ona horse 
of gold.. A bottle of wine, a few 
oranges, or a sallad, can never de- 
light the eyes, the chief intention of 
the plateau, and the vases are only 
profitable to the silversmith. It 
was at the marriage of Louis XV. 
in 1725, that the first sanded pla- 
teaux appeared at Paris. Desforges, 
father of the celebrated author of 
the Jealous Wife, Tom Jones at 
London, &c. introduced artificial 
verdure with great success. The 
son was no less remarkable as an 
actor and dramatic poet, than as 
the author of the very singular and 
erotic Memoirs of his own Life, in 
eight small volumes, under the title 
of Le Poete, ou Memoires d’un 
Homme de Lettres. Little temples 
were added by Dutofy, who also 
invented artificial fire-works in mi- 
niature, delighting at once the eye 
and the smell. 
The custom of dining without the 
‘attendance of servants, is warmly re- 
commended by M. Grimod, who 
justly observes that they throw a 
constraint over the conversation. 
He recommends the use of numerous 
dumb waiters, and that the servants 
‘should only bring in the services. 
101% 
The custom of visiting during the 
dinner, not uncommon at Paris, 
Seems contrary to every rule of true 
politeness, as it disturbs the guests, 
and prevents the enjoyment of the 
repast. But the French talk so 
much during the dinner, that one 
would conceive they are anxious 
not to know what they are eating. 
The want of carpets in a French 
dining-room forms also, as already 
mentioned, a great and unhealthy 
inconvenience. 
The hour of invitation is marked 
in three ways. If it bea séx heures, 
it is understood that the dinner will 
be served at-seven ; if six heures pre- 
céses, it is half after six; if sr 
heures trés precises, it is an invita- 
tion for six o’clock exactly. ‘lhe 
art of arranging the guests, so that 
the characters and conversation may 
correspond, is regarded as the height 
of good breeding. 
Among the finest wines of France 
are esteemed Clos-Vougeot, Roma. 
née, Chambertin, S. Georges, Pom- 
mard, Volnay, Vosne, Nuits, 
Beaune, Tonnerre, . Macon, 
Fitte, Chateau Margot, S. Julien, 
S. Estephe, Pic-Pouille, Tavel, S. 
Giles. “The white wines are those 
of Montrachet, Mursault, Ponilly, 
Chablis, Sillery, Pierry, Ai, Sau. 
terne, Grave, Barsac, Condrieux, 
Hermitage, Cote-Rotie, Rhenish, 
Moselle. Bar, &c. ‘Vhe swect wines 
served at the desert, are those of 
Lunel, Frontignan, (which we call 
Frontiniac) and Rivesaltes, which 
last is esteemed the best. That of 
St. Peray, near the Rhone, which 
the eye cannot distinguish from 
water, is also excellent. The fo. 
reign wines are those of Malaga, 
Alicante, Xeérés (Sherry), Pacaret, 
Madeira, Clazoméne, Constantia, 
Calabria, Tokay, Lacrima Christi, 
3T 2 Canarie, 
La - 
