12S Dr Boue on the Scenery and Antiquities 



bivouac of such a party at an inn, or perhaps under some fock 

 or wide-spreading tree ? 



For the admirers of maritime scenery, the borders of the 

 Black Sea, and also the Archipelago, abound with views as fine 

 as those along the coast of Liguria or Naples. I shall never 

 forget the delight I experienced on beholding the great Gulf 

 of Salonichi, with the hills of the Chalcidian peninsula to the 

 east, and the snowy tabular-shaped Olympus to the west. Be- 

 fore me lay the large white town of Salonichi, situated in an 

 amphitheatre, like Genoa, at the base of tlie last of the Chal- 

 cidian hills, and crowned by a pretty large citadel. All around 

 were plains filled with Grecian antiquities, tumuli, and the 

 ruins of the ancient Pella, the chief city of Philip ; whilst be- 

 hind me arose the first of those beautiful rocky walls which de- 

 fend the entrance to the interior of Macedonia. 



If we proceed a little farther into the country, at the distance 

 of twelve leagues from Salonichi, we reach the chief of the ru- 

 ral beauties of Macedonia — the well-known Vodena in the val- 

 ley of the Wistritza. 



The luxuriant vegetation commences to the south of Ostro- 

 vo, where the road passes through a defile so well clothed with 

 fine Mediterranean trees (green oaks, &c.), that the traveller 

 might easily fancy himself in an English park, were it not that 

 a small post for gendarmes, picturesquely situated on a pro- 

 jecting rock, at once puts an end to the illusion. After pass- 

 ing the marshy lake of Telovo, situated among the hills like a 

 crater, we arrive at the village of Telovo, where the united wa- 

 ters of the lakes of Telovo and Ostrovo, are seen rushing down 

 through travertine rocks in the midst of Colutea, Cercis, nut and 

 fig trees. 



The three cascades, of which the highest is at least forty 

 feet, have a very striking appearance. From hence to Vodena 

 the valley is in reality a park of Mediterranean fruit-trees, in- 

 termingled with the patches of maize. At the entrance to the 

 town of Vodena, there are a dozen of palms (Platanus oiientnlis), 

 under whose mighty shade there is always an agreeable cool- 

 ness ; but I was much annoyed on observing some Turks care- 

 lessly employed in cuttingofFapartof oneof them. One can see, 

 in this neighbourhood, that the ancient Greeks have not spoken 



