Capuchin Missions of the Caroni. 7 



23d. While waiting for the captain, who was to be my guide, 

 went into the church to see the adults mustered previously to their 

 being marched ofFto labour; they behaved with great decorum, 

 though the seniors did not exhibit much faith in the ceremonies 

 they were attending. The conduct of the patriots towards 

 the priests must have abated their reverence for the religion. 

 The number assembled was nearly 300. Silvas himself read the 

 service. Set forward about seven A.M., and crossing the 

 Miamo, took a S.E. direction over the savannahs, without any 

 path. The sun was hot ; we had no shelter, and certainly this 

 was the most fatiguing ride of the whole journey. — Approached 

 very near the base of a rocky ridge, when it suddenly breaks off 

 southward ; beyond is a vast woodless plain, abounding in 

 good pasture, and appearing to stretch out eastward without 

 limit. — Came to a brook time enough to bathe, before breakfast 

 overtook us with the baggage. — Had gallopped on too fast to 

 learn much from the captain in the way of conversation, except 

 that the English were good friends to the Caraibs, and that De- 

 merara had whole lakes of sugar and rum, and must consequently 

 be a happy land. The wild Indians appear to keep up some 

 communication with these people, as well as with our settle- 

 ments. He seemed to consider the passage to Demerara prac- 

 ticable though dangerous. — Continued our hot and pathless 

 ride, my guide steering for the hills, with all of which he seemed 

 familiar. — Espied at length numerous herds of cattle grazing in 

 every direction, and though shy, not absolutely wild. — It was 

 three P.M., before we reached Tumeremo, — beasts jaded and 

 myself thoroughly fatigued. — Had seen not a hut and very little 

 shade the whole way. The hills were mostly of whitish marble, 

 resembling quartz, whose ridges were sharp enough to have 

 lamed both our horses. The padre was asleep, and it was with 

 some difficulty I procured any refreshment. — Residence dirty 

 and full of girls spinning ; thirty were employed in weaving a 

 splendid hammock for the chief. When the gentleman at length 

 awoke, his urbanity of manner and sprightly conversation made 

 amends for his apparent inattention. Dined as usual on beef 

 and haropa, but very ill dressed. A mess of rice thickened the 



