28 Excursion from Angostura to the 



tirely stript of their cattle, and depending upon the casual pas- 

 sage of droves from the interior, when embargo is laid upon a 

 beast or two, and they are cut up for tassago. 



16th. Left this wretched abode this morning for San Joa- 

 quin, reckoned two leagues distant, the soldier driving his loaded 

 mare before him. Road across the savannah in a direction north- 

 westerly. Arrived in an hour and a half. Partook of a part 

 of the tassago shipping for Angostura. After arranging the con- 

 veyance of our surplus baggage, walked out to survey the roman- 

 tic scenery around. San Joaquin is the embarcadero of these 

 missions. The reverend padres, anxious to keep every thing out 

 of sight as much as possible, preferred this point to a more 

 commodious one on the Orinoco, a league hence. It stands on 

 the Caroni, immediately below the cataract of the right branch, 

 and in front of that of the left. The river here about half-a-mile 

 broad, and flowing down majestically into the Orinoco. Above, 

 it is most beautifully intersected by innumerable islets, until at 

 length the channel is severed into three branches, precipitating 

 themselves into the gulf beneath. It must be difficult to ascer- 

 tain the exact difference of level between this and Euri, a dis- 

 tance of above twenty leagues, during the whole of which the 

 river is full of rapids and falls ; but the principal fall may be 

 reckoned as about thirty feet perpendicular, which is enough 

 for interest and grandeur of scenery. In crossing the ferry on 

 •our outset, about four or five miles higher up, we had distinctly 

 heard the sound : but at that period the rapidity of the current 

 would have considerably impeded our approach. Were much 

 struck with the singular beauty of the spot, and regretted only 

 that it was not in the possession of a man of more taste and in- 

 dustry than its present occupant. The contrast of stinking 

 beef and rotten hides with all this sublimity of nature, was 

 a degrading reflection upon our species. But for the rapi- 

 dity of the current, San Joaquin would be an admirable sta- 

 tion, but being embayed, boats are for want of wind some- 

 times two days in pulling up. Otherwise, it is well protected by 

 a projecting rock, and is a place of perfect security. Set for- 

 ward and coasted the river southward, towards Caroni. For 



