Capuchin Missions of the Caroni. 29 



■want of any path, it is difficult to ascertain even the exact num- 

 ber of falls. There seem to be three principal ones, but the 

 whole distance may be considered as a continued rapid. Ap- 

 proaching Caroni, the channel expands, and the current appears 

 less violent, and is broken by innumerable rocks and islets, on 

 some of which we could see people fishing. At Caroni it is 

 sufficiently tranquil to admit of a ferry, though much too broad 

 for a horse to swim. 



Caroni, the earliest missionary establishment of these parts, 

 was founded in 1722. The church was in 1784 rebuilt of brick, 

 and is a handsome and extensive structure. It stands about 

 two leagues higher up than San Joachin, on a rising ground 

 close to the hilly range, and commands a fine view of the river. 

 The conventual buildings are old and ill-arranged, but, cosa 

 rara ! have two stories ; for, being the residence of the prefect 

 and his subordinate officers, more extensive accommodations 

 were required than at other missions. The Indians well-dis- 

 posed, and the place reputed healthy ; but the fever of San 

 Miguel has desolated it entirely. Not five Indians were to be 

 met with. The creole residents occupied but a single apartment 

 of the mansion, as if afraid of encountering this formidable enemy 

 in solitude ; some of them were affected, though not in a danger- 

 ous degree. Suspected that a great proportion of the popula- 

 tion had taken to the woods. Found in one of the rooms a pile 

 of about a dozen musquets taken from the Creole settlers in the 

 vicinity. It would seem that hereabouts, as well as at Upata, 

 there are many private conucos. But if all the Creoles be as 

 poor as one old man who arrived during our stay, they are not 

 much to be envied. My horse had hitherto shown no symptoms of 

 knocking up, but I now found that his hoofs were swelling from 

 the hardness of the rocks, to which he was unaccustomed, and 

 it was requisite to procure another. Saw two ; rode one for 

 trial to Murucuri ; price demanded, 25 dollars. 



Road thither, about three leagues, through woods skirting the 

 river in a direction S.W. Had occasional glimpses of the chan- 

 nel, which was still rocky and full of rapids. Arrived at Muru- 

 curi about five P.M. Found the' commandant in a dark dismal 



