CH. xiii] KAMPALLA : MOSQUITOES 375 



for ourselves ; the latter with open sides, the roof upheld 

 by cane pillars, so that it was cool and comfortable, and 

 afforded a welcome shelter, cither from the burning sun 

 if the weather was clear, or from the pelting, driving 

 tropical storms if there was rain. The moon was 

 almost full wlicn we left Kampalla, and night after 

 night it lent a half-uneartlily beauty to the tropical 

 landscape. 



Sometimes in the evenings the mosquitoes bothered 

 us ; more often they did not ; but in any event we slept 

 well under our nettings. Usually at each camp we 

 found either the head chief of the district or a sub- 

 chief witli presents — eggs, chickens, sheep, once or 

 twice a bullock, always pine-apples and bananas. The 

 chief was always well dressed in flowing robes, ana 

 usually welcomed us with dignity and courtesy (some- 

 times, however, permitting the courtesy to assume the 

 form of servility) ; and we would have him in to tea, 

 where he was sure to enjoy the bread and jam. Some- 

 times he came in a rickshaw, sometimes in a kind of 

 wickerwork palanquin, sometimes on foot. When we 

 left his territory we made him a return gift. 



We avoided all old camping-grounds, because of tht 

 spirillum tick. This dangerous fever tick is one of 

 the insect scourges of Uganda, for its bite brings on a 

 virulent spirillum fever, which lasts intermittently for 

 months, and may be accompanied by partial paralysis. 

 It is common on old camping grounds and in native 

 villages. The malarial mosquitoes also abound in 

 places ; and repeated attacks of malaria pave the way 

 for black-water fever, which is often fatal. 



The first day's march from Kampalla led us through 

 shambas, the fields of sweet potatoes and plantations 

 of bananas being separated by hedges or by cane fences. 



