384 UGANDA [ch. xiii 



Ten days from Kampalla we crossed the little Kafu 

 River, the black, smooth current twisting quickly along 

 between beds of plumed papyrus. Beyond it we entered 

 the native kingdom of Unyoro. It is part of the British 

 protectorate of Uganda, but is separate from the native 

 kingdom of Uganda, though its people in ethnic type 

 and social development seem much the same. We 

 halted for a day at Hoima, a spread-out little native 

 town, pleasantly situated among hills, and surrounded 

 by plantations of cotton, plaintains, yams, millet, and 

 beans. It is the capital of Unyoro, where the king 

 lives, as well as three or four English officials, and 

 Episcopalian and Roman Catholic missionaries. The 

 king, accompanied by his prime minister and by the 

 English Commissioner, called on me, and I gave him 

 five o'clock tea. He is a Christian, as are most of his 

 chiefs and headmen, and they are sending their cliildren 

 to the mission schools. 



A heron, about the size of our night heron, but with 

 a longer neck, and with a curiously crow-like voice, 

 strolled about among the native houses at Hoima ; and 

 the kites almost brushed us with their wings as they 

 swooped down for morsels of food. The cheerful, con- 

 fiding little wagtails crossed the threshold of the rest- 

 house in which we sat. Black and white crows and 

 vultures came around camp ; and handsome, dark 

 hawks, with white on their wings and tails, and with 

 long, conspicuous crests, perched upright on the trees. 

 There were many kinds of doves ; one pretty little 

 fellow was but six inches long. At night the jackals 

 wailed w ith shrill woe among the gardens. 



From Hoima we entered a country covered with the 

 tall, rank elephant-grass. It was traversed by papyrus- 

 bordered streams, and broken by patches of forest. The 



