Preparation of Milk used by the Kalmuck Tartars. 363 

 sues to render the spirits of the air or his tutelary angel propi- 

 tious. Lastly, the warm brandy circulates among the company, 

 composed of kinsfolk and friends, in large cups, which often do 

 not hold less than a bottle. If a little is left, it is heated again 

 before it is drunk. This milk brandy, on account of the 

 aqueous parts which it contains, does not inebriate so easily 

 when a small quantity is taken, as brandy made from grain ; 

 but it is found, by the example of the Russians and all the tribes 

 of the Steppes, that the drunkenness which it causes continues 

 longer, and entirely destroys the appetite. On the other hand, 

 it does not produce violent headaches like corn-brandy. 



The rich Kalmucks and Mongols are in the habit, when they 

 pass the winter near towns, of distiUing with or without milk 

 brandy from leavened bread. The product, it is said, is strong- 

 er and has a keener taste than milk brandy. The residuum of 

 the distillation of milk brandy, which is sharp and has a smell 

 like wine lees, is applied to various uses. Sometimes it is mixed 

 with fresh milk, and immediately eaten ; sometimes it is applied 

 for preparing sheep and lamb skins ; sometimes the women boil 

 it, either by itself, or, if it is too sharp, with a mixture of sweet 

 milk, until it thickens, and then pour the cheesy substance into 

 bags, which, when thoroughly dried, they throw into heaps. 

 They also, like the Tartar tribes, frequently form it into round 

 cakes, which they dry in the sun, and keep principally for jour- 

 neys and for winter use. The residuum of distillation is called 

 bosson, and by the Mongols tsakha. The cheese formed in 

 heaps is named chourmyk, that in cakes, thorossoun. 



They make another kind of cheese also, chiefly of sheep's and 

 o-oats' milk. The fresh milk is put into a kettle with a Hke 

 sour milk (edereksen us.mn), or some remnant of brandy (bos- 

 sah.) They are well mixed, and then left for some time to 

 sour. Fire is then put under the kettle, and the mixture is 

 stirred while it boils briskly, that the cheesy parts may be con- 

 verted into a kind of froth (koosoun.) When all the aqueous 

 parts of the milk are expelled by boiling, a little butter is added. 

 Tlie whole is again stirred, and left upon the fire until the froth 

 begins to dry and turn brown. It is then ready, and if pro- 

 perly prepared, has an agreeable taste. 



The Kalmucks make their butter in the foUowii^g manner :— 

 A sufficient quantity of cow's or sheep's milk i.s put into a kct- 



