Journey across the Island of Tahiti. J 55 



ocean. At length we attained the summit of the highest mountain but one 

 of Tahiti, the top or ridge of which does not, in some places, exceed three 

 or four feet in width. A few minutes after we had attained the summit, 

 we were obliged to lie down whilst a squall of wind with heavy rain passed 

 over us, during which time we were enveloped by a cloud so opaque and 

 dense, that we could scarcely see each other. The squall having passed, 

 we commenced descending, — to me a far more difficult task than ascend- 

 ing. In our descent I observed several beautiful young eahi, or sandal- 

 wood trees. At noon we had reached the plain at the foot of the mountain. 

 The guides now observed a path which appeared to them to have been but 

 lately trod. With great caution they traced it to a native house, which ap- 

 pearances betokened to have but very lately been vacated. This the guide, 

 Fiope, told me was the trace of a wandering tribe of Tutiouries* of whom 

 he expressed his fears that they would rob and ill-use us if we fell in with 

 them : we therefore changed our route, and proceeded to a plain at the 

 top of the valley of Hamaantno. Our journey now became exceedingly 

 tiresome and dangerous, we having frequently to ford the stream, which, 

 from the great addition to its waters, rolled with it very large blocks of 

 stone, the rumbling of which sounded like distant thunder. In the even- 

 ing we arrived at a very interesting village, distant, as I afterwards 

 found, nearly twenty miles from the sea-shore. This village or settlement 

 contained about one hundred and fifty people — 1 think the healthiest and 

 best looking men I have seen upon that island. They behaved with the 

 greatest kindness, killing a hog and preparing an excellent repast, of which 

 I partook, and at their persuasion remained with them during the night. 

 At dusk these natives assembled in a house adjoining, and kept up a heiva 

 or dance until midnight, at which they were very importunate that I should 

 be present, which I declined, rather desiring rest, which however was 

 totally prevented by the myriads of musquitoes. 



At our parting with these kind people, I was surrounded by a groupe of 

 the elder and inHuential men, who, in the most energetic manner, entreated 

 me not to mention their existence to the missionaries, informing me that they 

 no longer continued their idolatrous practices, but that they at the same 

 time had separated themselves from their fellow-men upon the shores, 

 rather than subject themselves to the new code of laws, and outwardly 

 follow a persuasion they as yet had felt no conviction in the truth of. It 

 was here that I observed the manners of a people, bearing some resemblance 

 to those described by Wallis, Cook, &c. ; the women wearing high head- 

 dresses, their own luxuriant raven hair plaited and decorated with wreaths 

 of high-scented native living flowers j their skin much fairer, carrying the 

 bloom of health, and altogether forming a most astonishing contrast with 

 those of the low lands — their clothes were their own manufacture ; the 



• Tutiouri signifies rust of iron ; tuti, defecated matter; and onri, iron; which 

 term is applied to persons of a wild or heedless disposition ; Anglice, vagabonds. 



