some six hundred had existence on paper only. At the date of our visit he 
was suffering from chest trouble, and the severe effects of having to abandon 
the use of opium. For this reason he excused himself for not calling; but 
a professional visit from Douglas seemed to be much appreciated by the 
invalid. : 
Yii-lin Fu, an ancient border city on the eastern bank of the Yii-lin Ho, 
is a busy place, forming, as it does, the chief mart for all commerce between 
the Southern Ordos Mongols and the Shensi Chinese. On the eastern side, 
sand from the desert has in many places banked itself up in a ramp against 
the city wall, thus affording an easy means of entrance to belated travellers. 
The western wall runs along the valley of the Yii-lin Ho. There are numerous 
temples within the city, in one of which, situated on high ground at the 
eastern end, a fine spring rises and pours its waters into a stream which, 
flowing through the town, fills in turn some large ponds within the western 
wall. From these the water escapes through a low heavily-barred archway, 
and is utilised to irrigate a large tract of cultivated land lying between the 
river and the city. One long street runs north and south from gate to gate, 
and from this issue many side streets. The main street, lined as it is with 
shops and pedlars’ stalls, presents a busy and interesting scene. Hides in 
great numbers lie pinned out to dry in the sun, whilst on all sides blacksmiths 
are busy turning out Mongol stoves, wolf-traps, household utensils and 
agricultural implements. Provisions, such as flour, vegetables, fowls, and 
mutton are very cheap. Excellent mutton may be bought at thirty-five cash 
per catty, or about a penny a pound; ten cabbages can be bought for the 
same sum. The chief commercial products of the city and district are horse 
and cow hides, the skins of antelopes, foxes, sheep, and goats, camel’s wool, 
and various sorts of hair and wool, both unmanufactured and in the form of 
felt and sacking. We obtained some very serviceable felt socks, made to fit 
over the boot, whilst the servants and muleteers laid in an ample stock of the 
strong native boots, for the manufacture of which the city is famous. A 
bituminous coal, which burns well, though with too much smoke, is obtained 
from a mine about a mile from the south gate. Outside the same gate several 
horse fairs are held annually, to which Mongols from every part of the Ordos 
bring their ponies, shaggy and unbroken, for sale or barter. One of these 
fairs took place during our stay, and an opportunity was thus afforded us of 
seeing some of these typical desert-dwellers. 
Just within the Great Wall, and about three miles north of the city, stands 
a large fort built originally to guard the entrance, through which runs the 
‘S 
