The country about Yii-lin Fu is wild and inexpressibly dreary. Very 
few trees are to be seen, and the bare brown cliffs and yellow sand are devoid 
of any vegetation, save an occasional tuft of some sage scrub. In places, 
especially where, as in the north-east, it rises to any prominence, gloomy 
chasms, with deadly quicksands lurking in their depths, gape in the sandstone 
and the half-formed shale. To north and west the prospect is heart-breaking. 
Sand-dunes and sand-dunes, and again sand-dunes—shifting with every storm 
and obliterating every landmark. Only here and there, as tiny islands in 
a sea of desolation, small clusters of mud huts, where some little oasis marks 
the site of a spring or well. 
An unpleasant discovery was made soon after our arrival at Yii-lin Fu. 
The current expenses of the expedition had been under-estimated, with the 
result that there was a serious shortage in the silver available. After some 
consultation it was decided that Cobb and Grant should start at once for 
Hsi-an Fu, the capital of Shensi, where it would be possible to negotiate 
certain drafts and wire to Peking for a further supply of specie. As Cobb’s 
time was nearly up, and there were urgent reasons for his early return to 
Europe, he decided to make this his farewell to the expedition, and to push 
straight on to the coast from Hsi-an Fu. Grant would return with the silver 
as far as Yen-an Fu, a city midway between Yii-lin and Hsi-an, where the 
main body would meet him. After a farewell dinner, and amidst the customary 
leave-takings and regrets, Cobb and Grant, with a small caravan of mules, 
started southward on November 27th. 
The winter was now coming on apace, and it was thought wise to set 
about making an early start for Yen-an Fu, where we could go into winter 
quarters, and accordingly the remaining members commenced to busy them- 
selves packing and preparing to resume the march. A few days later we were 
all astounded by the news of the three deaths in the Imperial Family—those 
of the Dowager Empress, Emperor, and Emperor’s uncle. This was indeed 
startling. What would happen? Would the long-expected revolution break 
out and sweep all before it? Where were Cobb and Grant? These and a 
hundred similar questions tormented our minds, for there was nothing to be 
gained by ignoring the fact that we were in the heart of a country where very 
many atrocities had from time to time been committed. However, after 
discussing matters, we came to the conclusion that everything would pass off 
quietly, and that there was little need for anxiety. Nevertheless, as a 
precautionary measure, the rifles were overhauled: and a good supply of 
12-bore cartridges filled with buckshot and issued to all hands. The Chinese 
22 
