palatial temple with gold-tiled roof and beautiful grounds is to be seen, built 
in the face of a precipitous and castle-like mountain, Hua Shan, one of 
the five sacred peaks of China,* famous as representing Buddha’s hand. 
Indeed, several deep chasms, cutting perpendicularly through the massive 
square-topped peak, seem to suggest the fingers and thumb of a Titanic 
hand. Numerous Buddhist temples are perched about its summit, and these 
form places of pilgrimage for the devout, as well as admirable summer resorts 
for the wealthy people of the plains. At T’ung-kuan Hsien, the Yellow River, 
after having flowed southward between the provinces of Shansi and Shensi, 
turns abruptly to the east. All along the road from Hsi-an Fu to this point 
waterfowl of every description were very abundant, and remarkably tame; so 
much so, indeed, that on one occasion Sowerby was able to ride into a small 
flock, and bag a goose with a cut of his whip. From T’ung-kuan eastward 
the road lies along deep, and most disagreeable loess gullies. Dust lies on the 
surface of the road to a depth of a foot or eighteen inches, the depth of the 
gullies preventing any possibility of its removal by the wind. The result 
being that in dry weather it is raised in high, choking clouds by every passing 
vehicle, and in wet it forms a veritable morass. After experience of both wet 
and dry weather in the district the opinion may be expressed with confidence 
that this is the very worst road in North China. 
Being, of course, anxious to reach Ho-nan Fu by the date given in the 
telegram, Sowerby managed to accomplish the last four days’ journey—109 
miles—in thirty-six hours; a performance which, considering the state of the 
roads, speaks well for the endurance of his mount, a typical Manchurian pony 
of thirteen hands. 
Nothing of any particular interest occurred at either Hankow, or 
Ho-nan Fu. Some difficulty was experienced in obtaining the carts necessary 
for the transport of the additional stores at Ho-nan Fu, but eventually 
arrangements were made, and we left this place on April 13th, and regained 
Hsi-an Fu on the 24th after an uneventful journey. 
* The five Sacred Peaks of China are: Hang Shan, in Shansi; Hua Shan, in Shensi; Sung Shan, in Honan ; 
Héng Shan, in Hunan; and T’ai Shan, in Shantung. 
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