the rebels in the terrible Mohammedan rising that devastated the country in 
the ‘sixties.’ It then sustained a long and severe siege, which ended in the 
massacre of its wretched inhabitants, and from which it has never recovered. 
At the present time there was not even a blacksmith’s forge within its walls, 
so that several of the ponies and mules of the expedition which had cast shoes 
were forced to continue their journey as far as Yen-anFu without being re-shod. 
From Ch’ing-yang eastward for some days the scenery was exquisite. The 
long-abandoned loess hills were overgrown with vegetation almost tropical in 
its luxuriance, and only down the valleys was any cultivation noticed. There 
were long stretches of uninhabited country, in which wild life of every kind 
was abundant. Many kinds of game-birds were to be seen in the valleys and 
along the streams, including pheasant, partridge, snipe, and several varieties 
of duck, whilst roedeer in great numbers wandered over the hills. Everywhere 
the tracks of wild pig were visible, and in places wolf and leopard spoor were 
noticed. 
Along the streams were to be seen two kinds of kingfisher, their radiant 
colours flashing in the sunlight, as they dived after minnows in the limpid 
waters, or darted like living gems along the rocky banks. Over these water- 
courses, too, hung countless dragon-flies of every description. Big pale 
fellows, with wonderful translucent eyes, hovered high in the air, darting 
down, ever and anon, to devour one of their smaller relations. Skimming 
over the rippling surface of the water were others ofa slaty blue colour. Here 
a streak of vivid crimson marked the passage of the beautiful male of yet 
another species ; and there, settled upon a rock—her wings outspread to get 
the full benefit of the sun’s warm rays—sat his little brown mate. There was, 
in addition, another most striking variety, with shining body, broad wings, and 
long tapering tail, all ordinarily jet black, but now scintillating with a 
thousand shades of blue, green, and gold as they caught and reflected the 
sunlight at various angles. Of this species there was a decided predominance ; 
and at times they collected in swarms over the reeds and rushes on which 
they sought to settle. Their flight resembled that of the butterfly in its 
uncertain fluttering course, rather than the graceful evolutions, lightning 
dashes, and motionless poisings of other dragon-flies. Amongst them were 
pale brown specimens which lacked the irridescent colours of the darker forms. 
The insect life was by no means confined to the stream and the dragon-flies. 
Over hill and dale floated gorgeous butterflies of every hue. Sometimes round 
a single clump of flowers a dozen different species might be counted. Down 
one ravine the graceful Swallowtail would abound, whilst on the adjacent hill 
75 
