78 Notes on a Tour in France, Italy, and Elba. 
bus, the greatest navigator—perhaps I ought to say, the greatest 
man, the world has yet produced. I searched two hours for his 
house, but searched in vain. ‘The spot, one told me, where he first 
saw the light, ison a small stream a mile or two distant from the city. 
At the close of the third of June we moved off for Leghorn, 
which contains little to attract the attention of a man whose object 
in going abroad is not commercial. I therefore took a trip of four- 
teen miles to Pisa, a city built soon after the overthrow of ‘Troy; 
and was nobly rewarded by a view of the Campanile, or Leaning 
Tower, the Duomo, or church in the form of a Latin cross; the 
Baptistery, or the edifice in which baptisms are performed, and the 
Campo Santo, or ancient burial ground. They fill the bosom of the ~ 
gazer with astonishment ; the sight of each of them is worth a jour- 
ney from Moscow. The Leaning Tower I most admired ; it is of 
a circular form, one hundred and ninety feet in height, consisting of 
eight stories, and ornamented with two hundred and seven granite 
and marble columns. I mounted, by an easy, winding staircase to 
the eighth story, where I had a commanding prospect of Pisa, of a 
broad zone of land encompassing it, and of many conspicuous objects 
far distant, among which was Leghorn. It is believed that the tower 
was originally perpendicular, and that its present declining position 
was occasioned by an earthquake, or by some other physical phenom- 
enon. You will not allow me to speak of the abode of the illustrious 
dead, and tell you that it is “‘a vast quadrangle, surrounded by sixty 
light and elegant Gothic arches, composed of white marble, and 
paved with the same substance ;” that it contains sarcophagi innu- 
merable, of Parian and Luni marble, ancient vases and rich frescoes, 
cinerary urns of alabaster, and paintings of enormous size. I must 
leave the magnificence of the interior of the Duomo—its high altar, 
ornamented with lapis lazuli, verd antique, bronze gilt, &c.—its por- 
phyry columns, its group of angels, all must be left for you to ima- 
gine. 
The next pause the Phocion made, was at the little filthy city of 
Civita Vecchia, whose harbor was built by Trajan, who had a villa in 
its vicinity. Here she remained eight days, for the purpose of giv- 
ing her passengers an opportunity to visit the “ Eternal City.” This 
period being expired, she brought me to Naples, or Napoli in Ital- 
jan, which stands at the extremity of my voyage. I remained in 
that city of business and noise eight days, examining its merveilles, 
and those of the region around it; in treading the narrow streets of 
