70 STOCKS. 



g-athered and the seed rubbed out and sown in drills 

 an inch deep, leaving a foot between the drills. 



Some growers wait until the spring- before sowing, 

 or even until the following autumn, but it is not neces- 

 sary, for the seed is so slow in germinating that the 

 sooner it is in the better, and I would advise a winter 

 sowing as the best in any case. 



The seed will continue to germinate at most irre- 

 gular intervals right into the second year. If sown in 

 in March and dry weather ensues, germination is de- 

 layed, and every week is valuable in the forming of a 

 strong stock. As the little seedlings grow, they seem 

 so very small the first year that all hopes of being able 

 to bud them the following year seems remote ; but it is 

 not so, for the second year's growth is surprising, and 

 the stem, hardly thicker than a wax vesta, becomes as 

 thick as one's little finger. 



When planting out seedling briars, tap roots can 

 be shortened and all roots spread well out. Do not 

 plant too deep. Keep the " collar " that is the point of 

 union between the stem and the root just above the 

 level of the ground. Remember you will bud below the 

 ** collar " on to the main root. Keep the seedlings the 

 same distance apart as the briar cuttings, and if they 

 grow too thick a little judicious thinning will do no 

 harm. 



The grower is wise to not only keep down weeds 

 and hoe the surface of the land round his stocks, but 

 also to watch for insect pests, which will do nearly as 

 much harm to the tender shoots of the growmg stock 

 as they will to the cultivated Rose. 



Spray when necessary with a good insecticide, 

 such as Cooper's Nicotine (V2) Summer Fluid, and 

 hand-pick grubs and caterpillars from time to time. A 

 good watering if the soil gets dried by March winds is 

 often helpful, but after once the stocks have settled and 

 started into growth very little care is really necessary. 



