46 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL CARNATION GROWING. 
and character. They may be the upper part of growing shoots, or 
they may be short shoots, cut close to the stem. - In all cases they 
should be severed transversely, and if the base is not cut clean it 
must be pared quite smooth. The lower leaves should be shortened, 
and the cuttings inserted firmly. Beginners frequently press the 
soil hard round the upper part of the cutting, and leave it loose 
below. The base should be made firm by pressing it against the soil 
with a blunt stick inserted diagonally. 
One cutting may be inserted singly in the centre of a 2-inch pot, 
or several together in a 5- or 6-inch. In the latter case they must 
stand well clear of each other. Use a crock and a little clean moss 
for drainage, finishing off with the rougher parts of the compost. 
Half each of loam and leaf mould, with a heavy dash of sand, may 
be used with advantage. A little sand may be dropped into the 
hole for each cutting, and the pots surfaced with it. As a rule, 
the cuttings root readily in acoldframe. If put in a frame, stand 
the pots on a layer of cinders to check the ingress of worms. Where 
convenience exists they may be covered with a bellglass or hand- 
light in a greenhouse. Naturally rooting is quicker with bottom 
heat than without it, but it is not absolutely essential. Whether 
it is used or not may depend on circumstances. 
The illustrations will make the various points clear, and the 
potting of the young plants when rooted may now be dealt with. 
When top growth commences to be observable at the apex of the 
Carnation cutting, it may generally be taken as granted that roots 
are also being emitted. If any doubt exists upon this point, an 
average, healthy cutting should be gently lifted by inserting a label 
under it. Any cuttings which show a tendency to yellowing, or 
are affected by blackleg disease, as depicted in Fig. 21, Q, p. 49, 
should be thrown away or burnt as soon as their condition is noticed. 
When roots are being pushed freely, a number of 2- or 
3-inch pots should be prepared by thoroughly cleaning and drying 
PROPAGATION BY PIPINGS OR CUTTINGS. FIG. 20 (NEXT PAGE).— 
UNDER A HANDLIGHT, WITH AND WITHOUT BOTTOM HEAT. 
L: g, hotbed formed of sweetened stable manure, about 6 inches larger 
all round than the handlight or frame to be placed upon it, and -18 
inches in height; /, soil; i, cuttings; 7, handlight. 
M: &, ground level; 7, layer of ashes, 6 inches deep; m, soil, 4 inches 
deep ; ~, cuttings inserted; 0, handlight. Where the ground is light 
and porous it is not necessary to form a cinder bed. 
N, cutting, with the leaves shortened, at the callusing stage: p, callus. 
O, cutting, with the leaves not shortened, showing the earliest stage at which 
it is desirable to repot: g, roots; 7, grass starting from a bud below 
the ground; s, grass pushing from the stem just above the soil; ¢, 
growing point, from which ultimately springs the flower stem. 
