112 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL CARNATION GROWING. 
“Perpetual,” which is frequently applied to the section, indicates a long 
period of blooming. This succession is further ensured if batches are 
propagated at various periods. Cuttings may be, and are, inserted in 
summer, autumn, and winter; but if bottom heat can be provided, 
January, February, and March propagation is the best, as strong 
flowering plants can be had in the shortest time. It must be remem- 
bered that summer struck plants will not bloom to any purpose in the 
following winter, but in the second, the plants passing the first win- 
ter in small pots, being shifted into larger ones in spring, and having 
the flower buds picked off in the intervening summer months. These 
make very strong plants, but are a long time in hand. 
Assuming that the cuttings are to be struck in winter or early 
spring, first give attention to the choice of shoots for cuttings. 
Strong, densely grassed main growths are not desirable, as they are 
apt to throw up a flower stem too soon. Short, sturdy side shoots 
are better. These may be pulled off the parent plant, and have the 
heel pared smooth and the lower leaves removed. They may be 
inserted round the edges of a 4-inch pot, just clear of each other, in 
a compost of loam, leaf mould, and sand in equal proportions, and 
with a surfacing of silver sand. The compost should be moist but 
not saturated, and kept so ; extremes, either of wet or drought, are 
dangerous, as they may cause the cuttings to rot or shrivel. The 
rooting will be quickest if the pots can be plunged in cocoanut 
fibre refuse in a propagating frame, or under squares of glass. A 
top heat of 55° to 65° will be suitable. Wipe the glass daily if 
moisture condenses on it. 
| When the cuttings have struck and rooted freely they may be 
potted singly in small pots. The roots should not be disturbed more 
than can be helped when the plants are taken out of the cutting 
pot. By careful manipulation with the finger and thumb the clump 
can be separated so that each has a nice ball. The plants will not 
be exactly alike; some will be stronger and better rooted than 
others. The biggest may go into 3-inch, the medium into 23-inch, 
and the smallest into 2-inch pots, if these three sizes are all available. 
TREE OR PERPETUAL SECTION. FIG. 54 (NEXT PAGE).—SHIFTING 
INTO LARGER POTS. 
L, astrong growing plant which after being put into a 3-inch pot and grown 
: on is shifted into a 5-inch pot: w, Invincible crock to exclude worms ; 
x, drainage; y, thin layer of moss ; z, rougher parts of the compost ; a, 
soil; b, ball; c, space for water ; d, side growths or grass ; ¢, growing 
point; /, point of stopping when the plant is about 5 inches in height, 
the roots having got well hold of the new soil. 
M, a plant shifted from a thumb into a 4-inch pot; references the same as 
for L. 
N,a plant in a 4-inch pot after topping: g, point of pinching out the 
leading growth; /, side shoots from the joints; 7, the stake to which 
the main stem is secured. 
