ROSES FOR WALLS AND FENCES 79 



brick wall too hot in high summer-time, and disappoints 

 by making little progress. The simple expedient may 

 then be tried of attaching trellis to the wall and training 

 the roses on this. The shoots are thus kept a little distance 

 away from the bricks, and the additional fresh air that 

 finds its way among the branches may make all the 

 difference between success and failure. It is only on 

 walls facing due south that this precaution, as a rule, 

 is necessary ; but its trial may be recommended when- 

 ever a wall rose is not making satisfactory progress. 



Perhaps the most important point of all is to give 

 the roses a good start in life ; this means so very much 

 to them afterwards. Moreover, precious years may pass 

 before they really recover from an initial set-back. A 

 hole, three feet deep, and of similar width, should be 

 dug for each plant. If the land is unusually heavy, or 

 clayey or very light and sandy, all the soil taken out 

 ought to be removed and replaced with fresh compost. 

 In ill-drained ground there should be eight or ten inches 

 of broken bricks at the base of the hole. One often finds 

 that climbing roses against walls fail, on heavy land, 

 because water collects in the bottom of the hole, causing 

 the soil to become sour, and eventually leading to the 

 death of the tree. Where, as so often in suburban gardens, 

 the soil is really little better than clay, the hole might 

 be dug three and a half or four feet deep to allow for 

 twelve inches of drainage material at the base. Whole 

 turves (those that have been stacked for some months 

 are preferable), grass side downwards, are placed on the 

 broken bricks, and the remaining space is filled with 



