47 
will generally indicate that the wood is ripe and 
thoroughly matured. In taking off the leaves, let a 
portion of the leaf-stalk be left at the base of the 
eye, it will be an assistance when inserting the bud, 
and will help to shade and protect the bud after it is 
inserted. As soon as possible after the incision is 
made in the stock, the bud (which must be pre- 
viously cut and taken out) should be inserted, and 
immediately bound up with cotton or matting, so as 
to exclude the air and wet until the bark is united. 
In about three weeks, the matting or cotton will 
require to be loosened, and in a few weeks after- 
wards may be taken entirely off. A few inches 
should be taken off the end of the Briar which has 
been budded ; the sap will consequently flow more 
directly to the bud at the base of the shoot. 
Grafting.—Early in spring is the usual time for 
eraftmg Roses; but with the assistance of pro- 
pagating pits or house where artificial heat can be 
obtained, this operation can be performed at various 
seasons of the year, provided the stock and the 
scion are both in proper condition. The stock to be 
grafted should be rather in advance of the scion, 
and taken when the sap is in active motion. The 
scion should consist of hard, well-ripened wood, and 
not too far advanced. Any of the modes of grafting 
usually practised, such as whip grafting, saddle 
grafting, or cleft grafting, may be adopted. Whip 
or tongue grafting is the most simple and the most 
expeditious, and will answer every purpose. 
The Manetti and the Seedling Briar or Dog Rose 
are the kinds most in use for stocks, to graft both 
