PRUNING THE TREES 



stub left on a trunk or large branch does not 

 heal, but soon begins to rot at the end where the 

 heartwood is exposed. This gradually works 

 back Into the main branch and the tree finally 

 becomes " rotten at the heart." All that is 

 needed to complete the destruction is a heavy 

 wind, an ice or a snow storm, or a heavy load 

 of fruit. 



All wounds more than two inches in diame- 

 ter should be painted either with a heavy lead 

 paint, which Is preferable, or with some gas tar 

 preparation. These things do not In them- 

 selves heal a cut, but they keep out the decaying 

 elements, air and moisture, thus helping to 

 preserve the branch and by protecting it to 

 promote healing in nature's way. A little lamp 

 black will serve to deaden the color of the paint. 



Pruning Tools. — The best tool to use in 

 pruning is one which brings you nearest to your 

 work and over which you have the greatest con- 

 trol to make all kinds of cuts. In the writer's 

 experience no tool does this so smoothly and 

 conveniently as a properly shaped saw. A 

 good saw should be quite rigid, rather heavy at 

 the butt, where its depth should be about six 

 inches, tapering down to about two inches at 

 the point. It should have a full, firm grip, be 



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