Gladiolus Studies — II 251 



moist and cool (Flanagan). Under these conditions they start much 

 better than if dried out. C. S. Tait, a Georgia grower, writes: " When 

 dug I pack them in dry sand, and they keep finely. I left them in the 

 ground this season as we seldom have frosts that freeze deeper than one 

 inch. They are coming up now [October 31, 19 13]." 



Cormels are frequently stored in cheesecloth bags, but oftener in trays. 

 Thomann spreads the cormels on trays, grading them in three sizes by the 

 use of sieves. 



Summarizing, it may be said that cormels should be either peeled 

 before planting, or soaked in rather warm water to soften their hard, 

 dry coats. Besides this treatment, covering the bed with a burlap sack 

 will result in a greater percentage of growth. 



INDOOR CULTURE 



Almost since their introduction, gardeners have grown gladioli as pot 

 plants. The nanus varieties, Gladiolus Colvillei, or the standard gandaven- 

 sis and Lemoinei hybrids, may be planted with equal success. It seems 

 inadvisable to use the term forcing in this connection, since that word 

 often carries with it the idea of high temperatures causing a premature 

 blooming. The gladiolus apparently does not stand such treatment. 



The following species are mentioned by Endicott (1888) as being adapted 

 to pot culture: G. tristis, G. recurvus,G. gracilis, G. cuspidatus,G. Watsonius, 

 G. villosus, G. Milleri, G. alatus, G. stdphureus, G. carneus. Each of these 

 species has small corms producing dwarf plants and small flowers. In late 

 autumn they should be placed in four- or five-inch pots, in a light, rich soil. 



G. Colvillei and its white variety, The Bride, have been grown under 

 glass to a considerable extent, but the whole nanus group has been neg- 

 lected. Many of the nanus varieties are three weeks earlier than the 

 Colvillei. Moreover they are not quite so rigid, and in many of them 

 the foliage maintains its deep green color to a much greater extent than 

 does the foliage of Colvillei varieties, since the latter is very likely to turn 

 brown, at least at the tips. As the season begins with the first of April or 

 May the plants bloom at a time when few others are in their prime. 

 The flowers do not all come at one time but their blooming periods vary, 

 thus extending their season of usefulness for the florist. 



The corms should be potted not later than the first of December, and 

 preferably in October or November. If the corms are placed five or six 

 in a five-inch pot or individually in smaller pots, they can be shifted to 

 larger pots or transplanted to the greenhouse bench. If preferred, they 

 may be planted directly in benches. Fuld (191 2), in describing cultural 

 methods, says: 



_ Many commercial growers to-da.y plant it right between the carnations without 

 giving it any extra, space, thus getting two crops where formerly they reaped but one. 



