Gladiolus Studies — II 253 



The taller-growing and late-blooming varieties also are grown under 

 glass to a great extent. Varieties are chosen for forcing which bloom 

 early, ha^'e clear, light colors, and are vigorous and health}'. As before 

 mentioned, one of the best methods of commercial culture is to place 

 the corms a.mong carnations. "When planted in the short rows crosswise 

 of the bench, they do not seriously interfere with the proper cultivation 

 of the carnations. Cowee (1907), writing on this practice, says: 



Most florists who force gladioli are apt to cut the spike too near the soil 



The bulb is damaged and will not the next year, either under glass or if grown 

 outside, do as well. I have found that to give the forced bulbs one year in the ground 

 before forcing the second time increases their vitaUty. . . In solid beds I have 

 produced excellent spikes in ninety days with the earliest varieties, but among car- 

 nations it usually takes from ninety-eight to one hundred and five days. 



While the roots are forming on the bulbs, the temperature should not be over 50° 

 at night, 60' during the day, but after they are well established 55° at night and 65° 

 during the day is not too warm. ... A light dressing of three parts of ashes 

 and one of bone meal applied at the time of planting the bulbs will more than repay 

 for the trouble and expense. 



It is not necessary to first plant in pots, but most growers prefer to 

 give the plants a good start by placing the potted corms underneath 

 the bench in the carnation houses until good root systems are formed 

 and tops are weU started. If planted directly in beds the corms should 

 be placed at a depth of two inches or more, for it is well to let the depth 

 of planting provide a means of support. 



Taft (i9"i3) wT-ites: 



The bulbs need to complete their period of rest before they are started into growth, 

 and nothing ^\411 be gained by planting them before the last of December, unless bulbs 

 are used that have been forced the pre\-ious year. They can be grown either in beds, 

 boxes or pots, but one of the latter will generally be found preferable, as it admits of 

 keeping them in a cool place until the roots have formed, which is desirable. 

 It vdW be best to start them in pots and transplant them to the beds after the pots have 

 become filled with roots. 



They can be grown in the boxes about the same as Holland bulbs, using rather heavier 

 and richer soil. The bulb should be barely covered with the soil, and as there is danger 

 of the damping off of the shoots if over-watered, it is a good plan to have the surface 

 half-inch of sand. Water thoroughly and place under the benches, where the tem- 

 perature will be 50°, until the roots have filled the soil and the leaves have started. 

 Gradually increase the heat to 60° and to 75'. When the buds begin to form, give 

 liquid manure once a week. If properly handled, the flowers will be ready to cut 

 by Easter. 



Bebbington (1907) prefers to maintain a temperature of 50° at night 

 and 60° in the da^'time, and holds that a temperature of 70° is too high. 



John Thorpe (Allen, 1911, pages 121-122), of Pearl River. New York, 

 writes as foUows of his experiences: 



To force gladiolus successfully, however, requires attention at just the right time, 

 and its wants should always be anticipated and supplied. Here is the routine of my 

 practice: The bulbs I forced this year were also forced last year. They were then 

 planted February 8, and the first twenty-five flowers were cut May 30. This vear's 

 work began December 27 by potting each bulb in a four-inch pot, using sandy loam, 

 without manure, and placing the bulb on the top, pressing it down to hold it without 

 any other covering; they were watered and then placed underneath the benches of 



