2 54 Cornell Extension Bulletin io 



a carnation-house until the beginning of February. At that time those plants which 

 had grown to the height of four inches were brought to the light and again watered. 

 Placing them close together on a bench near the light, a little water was given from 

 time to time, retarding the top growth, and encouraging root-action as much as possible. 

 By the twentieth of the month the plants were gone over, and all those of an even size 

 were planted together in rows about a foot apart, and nine inches apart in the rows. 

 After planting those of one size, then another batch a size less was handled. This 

 selecting into sizes pays for all the trouble it costs in preventing strong plants from 

 overcrowding the weaker ones. My soil is rather a heai'^^ sandy loam, and in this 

 the bulbs were planted, the depth of the entire bed being a little more than four inches. 

 The bulbs were scarcely covered even at this time, and this, I find, prevents the damping 

 off of the plants during dull days, when they have commenced to grow rapidly, and 

 are checked either by dark weather or by a cold spell. By the middle of Ivlarch each 

 plant was tied securely to prevent its faUing over, which is generally ruinous to the 

 flower-spike; a light mulching of stable-manure was then put on and well watered. 

 From that time until the flowers were cut a good soaking of liriuid manure was given 

 each week. The gladiolus delights in moisture when well along in growth, but in 

 its earlier stages too much water is death to it. The first twenty-five flowers were 

 cut for Easter, or six weeks earlier than last year. The temperature was never higher 

 than 50° at night, and during the daytime the house was ventilated whenever it could 

 be kept above 70° F. 



Another object of indoor culture is to extend the season of bloom in 

 the conservatory. For this purpose the method of culture described 

 by Kelway (191 3) is substantially as follows: If it is desirable to have 

 gladioli late, for decorating the conservatory, they may be grown with 

 tolerably good effect. The corms should be potted singly in six-inch 

 pots about the end of May, using a rich compost of yellow loam, old 

 hotbed manure, and silver sand. They should then be plunged in a 

 bed of very rich soil the rims of the pots being placed about two inches 

 below the surface. In dry weather they will require to be kept tolerably 

 moist with frequent waterings. As soon as frosts commence the pots 

 shotild be hfted and placed in a cold greenhouse or vinery, and they 

 should be brought into the conservatory as soon as the buds begin to open. 



It is frequently recommended that some bulbs be potted of such 

 varieties as are useful early in the spring or simimer, four or five corms 

 being placed in a six-inch pot and started in a temperature of 50° F. 

 These can later be planted in the ground, and four or five weeks can thus 

 be gained in blooming. Often, however, this method does not prove 

 successful. It is difficult to handle the plants without breaking the 

 tops, and they should be staked immediately on being placed in the 

 garden. 



INSECT AND ANIMAL PESTS 



It seems safe to say that there is really no insect that is seriously 

 injurious to the gladiolus. Dombrain (1873) reports serious damage in 

 England due to wireworms. He believes that freshly turned-up sod 

 should not be used, and writes as foUow^s: " Three years ago I planted 

 mine in a part of my garden which had up to two years before that been 

 a meadow, and the previous season had potatoes in it. Half my roots 



