146 THE BOOK OF THE ROSE CHAP. 
This is not essential, but is more likely to ensure 
success. Many make the shield of bark containing 
the bud considerably longer than the longitudinal 
slit which is to enclose it, and cut it across when it 
is in so that it exactly fits the cross cut. This is 
the mode generally adopted by professionals, and 
requires a steady hand, good sight, and a very keen 
knife. Amateurs probably more often make the bud 
the right length to start with, cutting the upper end 
square. The leaf-stalk will form a useful handle for 
pushing the bud down into position. 
The bud should now be tied in, making the bands 
of raffia touch one another and cover the whole of 
the slit wood except the bud itself. The tie should 
be made firm and fairly tight, and should not be 
removed for four weeks, unless it is seen to be 
cutting into the bark. The bud will generally have 
taken or failed by the end of three weeks, but some- 
times this is a little too soon to remove the ties 
entirely. No shading is necessary in the hottest 
weather, if the stock continues in good growing 
order. 
There should be no shortening of the budded 
shoots, before, at the time, or after budding. 
Shortening checks the flow of sap to the bud 
instead of increasing it. When the ties are 
removed, standard stocks that have failed may 
be re-budded on fresh shoots. The date of budding 
each stock or row should be entered on the label 
or in a book, that the proper time for removing the 
ties may be known. 
Some recommend budding with only the longitu- 
dinal cut and no transverse one. This may be a 
