156 THE BOOK OF THE ROSE CHAP. 
be left at the bottom, the likelihood of striking will 
be increased. If taken so early that the leaves yet 
remain, all should be removed save the two top 
ones, and in this case a good soaking with water 
should be given after the cuttings are set out. 
They should be set deep, only two buds showing 
above the soil, in double rows as recommended for 
briar and manetti cuttings. It will be a great help 
to the emission of roots if the shoots rest firmly at 
the bottom upon some sharp sand or sifted cocoa- 
fibre dust. Attention must be paid to them, as to 
briar cuttings, after sharp frosts which lft the 
shoots in their holes. In the: winter they may be 
gently pressed down again, but if thus raised by 
frost later when possibly roots may have formed, it 
will be better to tread the soil firmly round them. 
In the following autumn those that have made good 
srowth may be moved, and planted shallower in 
their permanent quarters, and it will then be seen 
how poor are the roots in comparison to those of the 
stocks on which Roses are budded. 
If this method of propagation is carried out during 
the summer, a close frame or at least a hand-glass is 
necessary. The cuttings need not be more than four 
inches long, and should consist of short-jointed wood 
with a heel to each. They should be syringed and 
kept close for a while, and much care will be requisite 
to prevent damping off. Bottom heat is a great 
help towards getting them on quickly, but all this is 
generally great waste of time and energy, as only a 
few of the hardiest, strongest, and commonest sorts 
will do well on their own roots, and these will root 
fairly as November cuttings. 
Suckers and Layering.—The Scotch and Austrian 
