WINE CULTURE IN N. S. WALES. 935 
merits have won, in many cases, the highest acknowledgment. 
Why should not all our wines be made of high quality? Dr. 
Méran, of Bordeaux, and a recognised French authority, in 
criticising the wines ae at Bordestet in 1882, said that ‘the 
Australian white wines are generally successfully made, with a 
good colour, delicacy, resembling often the best dry wines of 
the Gironde (old Barsae, for instance).” In reference to Dalwood 
reds he said :—‘“ It is amongst these that there is found the most 
of the wines resembling the Verdot, which appears to be most 
likely to blend with our French wines. I prefer, however, the 
Pineaux, more coloured, more generous, somewhat sweet, making 
one think, according to the year, of our Burgundy, St. Emilion, 
or Rousillion. Dalwood seems to have succeeded the best in 
giving young wines, being very like some very good wines from 
the Bordelais. If we judge according to his wines in bottles, he 
(Mr. Wyndham) has also been very successful in producing wines 
similar to those of the Graves, or rather the Libournais; but 
they are often too dry, too much discoloured (¢.9., reduced in 
colour), even when retaining some sweetness, and very likely they 
had to suffer from bad conditions of temperature, want of rackings, 
&e.” This testimony is valuable, because it represents the opinion 
of the highest wine centre of France. Furthermore, Dr. Méran 
Says: “ It is most inter esting to state that your Australian 
wines, whilst wanting the qualities expected from the best wines 
of France, are by far superior to the common wines of the whole 
of Europe, and they may rest assured of a great future, if the 
intelligent owners of your principal vineyards obtain experienced 
workmen, skilled wine-coopers, cellar managers, and men qualified 
to taste wines, ascertain their defects, and develop their qualities.” 
To obtain wines for exportation to France “ you should choose,” 
he furthermore says “rich and well-watered grounds, vine-species 
of an extreme abundance, such as the Aramon, and then preduce 
wines similar to those of La anguedoe, Provence, and the north of 
Spain.” With regard to choice wines—viis ‘same authority 
observes : “For these the selection of vine-species is very important, 
and I fear you have not been very lucky by giving too great a 
share to the Rhenish species, nor by cultivating separately e each 
vine to obtain as many qualities of wine as of varieties of grapes, 
such as the Pineau, Cabernet, Malbec, Reisling, Verdot, Hermit- 
age, Pedro-Ximenes, Shiraz. Such a method is not enough to 
create Rhenish wines—neither Burgundy nor Medoc. It is of 
absolute necessity to associate a small number of vine-species, 
springing, blooming, and ripening together, whose different 
qualities combine and harmonise to give a wine full-bodied, rich 
with savewr, delicacy, and bowguet all at once.” The best species 
cultivated for the vins jins of France are ‘“ Cabernet, Pineau of 
Burgundy, Verdot, Malbec (often combined together, according to 
