( 37 ) 



such ideas entered their heads ; apparently, it was a mere habit, 

 and a very objectionable one, too, in the eyes of Europeans. Tea, 

 fruit, and sweets were placed before Captain Strover and myself, 

 served on a large silver tray which would have looked a good deal 

 better for a little cleaning. 



66. After spending twenty minutes here, we were taken to the 

 ml T . ,. n , chamber of the Italian Consul, who 



The Italian Consul. n , , , * ., 



was squatted on the ground, tailor- 

 fashion with his shoes on, and a cheroot in his mouth. The 

 apartment, though large, was the picture of gloominess and 

 discomfort, and sufficiently dingy to have induced the Consul to 

 remark, as I was scanning the walls and taking stock, that a 

 coating of white-wash would be an improvement. Here and there 

 was suspended on the walls a photograph of the great Shway Dagon 

 Pagoda of Rangoon, and one most miserably gilded illustration of 

 the same building, all out of perspective, and evidently the produc- 

 tion of some native artist. 



67. We had not spent more than ten minutes in the Consul's 

 ^ in . . ,. room when we were summoned to the 



Hall oi Audience. >-, -, TT -n » A -,. x 



(irancl Hall oi Audience. I was now 

 all impatience, for an introduction to Eoyalty seemed a matter 

 of great importance. The scene of grandeur, however, I had 

 pictured to myself soon dwindled away, as we were (shoelessly) 

 ushered through the dirty, unswept courts and crossings that led up 

 to the Hall of Audience, where we were seated on the dirty, bare 

 teak boards, in the humiliating position of suppliants — an attitude 

 all are subjected to who visit the palace. This apparently was a 

 demi-official Royal reception-hall, at the back of the State-room 

 from which it was partitioned off by wood panelhng. The side by 

 which we entered was entirely open, the opposite end being shut 

 in by a crimson curtain. At the back was a raised platform or dais 

 covered with crimson velvet, and finished off in front by a deep gold 

 fringe. Here also was placed a sort of elbow support, in the 

 form of a large square crimson velvet cushion, covered with a 

 white nmslin slip, exposing either end, both being elaborately 

 embroidered in gold. That portion of the dais occupied by His 

 Majesty was richly carpeted, and canopied by white cloth, with 

 an open-work valance of the same material all round. The ceiling 

 was of handsomely carved wood, supported on massive gilt 

 columns which now wore a very dingy appearance, but quite in 

 keeping with the rest of the hall, which appeared sadly in want 

 of re-decoration. 



Fronting the dais at a distance of about ten yards were arranged 

 in line the Ministers, on their right the Resident, next to whom 



