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CHAPTER IV. 



Bhamo, including a trip to the Kakhyen hills via the Taping river. 



139. December 24th. — It was too late to land last night, so I 

 Delay in landing postponed the pleasure of calling on 



the Officiating Assistant Resident un- 

 til this morning. Before leaving the steamer, however, Mr. 

 Cooper came on board, and very kindly invited me up to the Re- 

 sidency, but expressed his regret at not being able to extend his 

 hospitality, as he had run short of stores, and did not intend re- 

 plenishing them during the remainder of h'is stay, which was not 

 for long. This was of little consequence, for I was well supplied 

 with provisions, having already been warned of the difficulty I 

 should experience in this respect after leaving Mandalay, and fur- 

 ther cautioned at all times to be independent of the villagers for 

 food, quarrels often arising from over-zealous servants forcing the 

 people to sell against their will. 



140. Mr ; Cooper had evidently come on board charged with in- 



dignation, for barely had the usual 

 ^S:Z\^Zr^ ^ civiliti f b een exchanged, than he ex- 



pressed surprise at not having received 

 earlier notice of my coming, the first intimation given him being 

 that conveyed in the mails we had brought up. He seemed still 

 more astonished at the weakness of my escort, and the absence 

 of a guard provided by His Majesty the King of Burma. He spoke 

 of the disturbed state of the country, and the great risk I ran in 

 attempting to travel among the wild Kakhyen mountaineers until 

 peace had been restored ; and even went so far as to protest 

 against my leaving Bhamo until he had communicated with the Re- 

 sident at Mandalay, placed him in possession of the correct state 

 of affairs, and pointed out the imprudence of allowing me to 

 go amongst these wild people, who were up in arms, and had 

 placed the Burmese Government at defiance. I was sadly disap- 

 pointed at the unfavourable turn things had taken, for it appeared 

 as though I was not to be permitted to carry through the work 

 I had so aspired to. Fortunately, however, after a patient hearing, 

 I was able to fathom the secret of Mr. Cooper's grievance, and satis- 

 factorily explain the unavoidable circumstances under which I 

 had been thrust upon him so unexpectedly ; this had the desired 



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