( HB ) 



miles either way. I had the promise of a copy of this marvellous draw- 

 ing, but it never reached me, neither did I expect it would, for the 

 authorities are cautious how they supply information of this nature. 

 163. No sooner had I definitely fixed the date for my depar- 

 ture, than the Governor showed signs 

 a?toe. Ct ° f my approaching de ' of wavering, and expressed his regret 

 par me * that I should attempt the journey when 



the country was so unsettled and life not safe, and hoped I would 

 postpone my tour for about two months. This I told him was 

 quite out of the question, and that I felt there was little to fear, 

 when travelling in the districts of such a well-organized Govern- 

 ment. Seeing I was inflexible and bent on going, he consented to 

 arrange for two boats, and an extra crew for the Residency's boat, 

 which had been placed at my disposal ; he also promised to send 

 an intelligent guide with me, on whose advice I was at all times to 

 act, which, of course, I consented to do, though I had fully resolved 

 to use my own discretion in all matters of importance, and in which 

 the interests of my mission were concerned. Fortunately my cice- 

 rone turned out a most tractable old party, and let me do pretty well 

 as I liked, provided he was allowed plenty of food, pdn-suparee, and 

 cheroots, which I was careful to see he was never in want of. The 

 interview was brought to an end over tea and sweets ; and to all 

 outward appearance we parted the best of friends : certainly the 

 politeness and assistance I received throughout my stay in Dmj-myo 

 district has left no room for doubting his sincerity ; of course, he 

 had a part to play, as others similarly placed would have had, but 

 that part, so far as I was concerned, was performed in the least 

 objectionable way. Two days subsequently, the Governor sent the 

 whole of his Court officials to visit me, and intimate his intention 

 of calling the following day. They brought me a small branch of 

 the wild tea plant, which they said the Woon had obtained from the 

 hills to the east of Bhamo. The leaves were coarser and smaller 

 than those of the cultivated variety, and both entire and serrated. 

 It is neither used by the Chinese nor Kakhyens I am told. The 

 boats and boatmen were reported to have been arranged for at one 

 rupee per man per day, and an extra rupee for each of the boats 

 hired. I fixed the day after the arrival of the mails for my start, 

 as I expected some botanical boards and paper by that steamer, 

 which I had telegraphed to Rangoon for from Mandalay, finding 

 the supply I had started with insufficient. The visitors did not 

 leave a very favourable impression, for they were sadly wanting in 

 manners, and dirtily dressed : however, they had every courtesy 

 shown them, and the usual civility and mark of hospitality in the 

 form of tea and biscuits was observed. 



