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HOW' TO GROW ROSES 



manures is just as the ground begins to freeze in the autumn. 

 Let it serve as a protection over winter, and dig it in next 

 spring, being careful, however, not to disturb the roots. 



Far better than surface-coating is the ample supply of 

 fertihzer placed well under the roots in the bottom of your 

 beds before you plant your roses, because roots travel toward 

 their food-supply. By thus enticing them downward, you 

 develop a strong, deep root-growth down into the reservoir of 

 stored-up food and moisture, so that, when dry weather comes, 

 they will not hunger and thirst, as they would with only surface 

 roots. Surface application of manure-water is quite a different 

 matter, as that will percolate down to the deepest roots. 



It is said that roses draw most upon the soil when blooming, 

 and we find we can almost see the results from application (when 

 the flower-buds begin swelling) of liquid manure, concocted by 

 catching the drain from the manure-pile, or from one-third of a 

 bushel of manure placed in a bag and soaked in a barrel of w^ater. 

 Apply this as a weak tea, not too strong, but frequently, say 

 twice a week. When it is more convenient, a sprinkling of 

 bone-dust on the surface before a rain will answer the same 

 purpose. Even with the best care, it may prove necessary in 

 some locations, say after six or eight years, to renew the soil 

 or move the bed, adopting the principle of crop rotation. 



How pleasant it is to pick a rose for your buttonhole as you walk b.^ 



