30 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL ROSE GROWING. . 
to do without it is strong, yet land that lics waterlogged for 
several months of the year is not good for Roses. _ 
If the ground is under turf, one of two courses may be taken 
-—_the turf may be cut off and rolled for stacking, to come in for 
‘potting material a few months afterwards ; or, 1f better material 
is available for this purpose, it may be chopped up and incor- 
porated with the soil. 
In any case, the top soil must be taken off and the next spit 
stirred. It is better still to remove two spits and turn over the 
third. Place the different spits back in the same positions as 
they occupied at first, and spread manure between them. 
A soil on gravel is so far better that it will not require to be 
drained if on the level, but there its superiority ends. Such 
soils are frequently so light that it becomes advisable to add 
clay, if clay is procurable without a ruinous expenditure. If 
the upper strata are sandy, clay is particularly desirable for the 
planting layer. Mixed with decayed yard manure, it will add 
substance as well as fertility. 
Many growers who have very stiff land to deal with burn the 
surface soil. This is an admirable plan, but naturally it entails 
expense. Ridging and liming will disintegrate it more cheaply. 
The soil should be ridged and well dressea with mortar rubbish 
in autumn, then late in winter manured and dug. 
In dealing with a poor chalky soil, it is almost obligatory to 
go in for thorough measures and make capacious “ pockets ” 
for the Roses. The natural soil should be removed to a depth 
of at least 2 feet, and a mixture of turfy loam and yard manure 
substituted, 2 parts of the former to 1 part of the latter, with a 
sprinkling of mortar rubbish for preference. 
Trenching and manuring soil raise its level. A piece of 
ground that has two spits shifted, and the third turned over, 
and which, moreover, has had additions of manure and mortar 
rubbish made to it, will be nearly 1 foot above its former level 
when the work is finished. It 1s, as might be expected, very 
loose, and a walking-stick pressed in will easily penetrate its 
entire length. Considerable settling must be expected, and 
should be allowed for in the planting. 
Here, then, in a few words, is the commonsense of soil pre- 
paration for Roses—stiff soil drained, ridged, limed, manured, 
and pulverised; light soil thickened with clay and stable 
manure. 
The earlier in autumn the task can be tackled the better. 
There is the more time to get it done, and the more help from 
the elements. It is not necessary to plant immediately. Order 
the Roses early, of course, to ensure getting good stuff, but 
if the bed is not ready when they come, practise no undue haste. 
Lay the Roses in by the heels and go on with the soil prepara- 
tion—-steadily, deliberately, thoroughly. 
