AERIDES. 29 
and leaving the others free. By this means a greater 
amount of moisture can be supplied to them; and the lower 
leaves remain on longer, and thus beautiful and sym- 
metrical specimens are obtained. 
If cylinders are used instead of baskets, they should be 
filled to within 2in. of the top with rough drainage, fixing 
the base of the plant by means of these. The sphagnum 
should then be pressed firmly about the top, to the depth 
of 3in. When the moss becomes old and worn out, it 
should be washed out and replaced with fresh; this may 
be done without interfering with the roots, which will 
be found firmly attached to the basket or pot. When the 
plants become old and leggy, they may be shortened by 
cutting away the base of the stem and planting the top in 
the moss. If possible, one or two of the stem-roots should 
be left on the piece after the removal of the lower part 
of the stem, otherwise there is danger of losing more 
foliage before new roots are developed. The safest time 
to perform this operation is February. 
Mr. John Smith, who was for so many years Curator of 
the Royal Gardens, Kew, in the early days of Orchid- 
culture, adopted another method of growing Aérides. He 
says: ‘‘Many years ago we remember seeing Aérides 
odoratum in fine flower, its roots being attached to a moist 
brick wall, and as they adhere in like manner to the sides 
of garden pots, we have procured some tall, cylindrical pots 
(something like chimney-pots), round the margin of which 
we temporarily fix the plants; but they soon fasten them- 
selves by their roots, gradually creeping over the surfaces 
of the pot, both within and without, and, by occasionally 
syringing the outside, and a little water inside, the porous 
earthenware is kept sufficiently moist to be congenial to 
the roots.” 
The Aérides are, as a rule, easily grown into handsome 
