CATTLEYA, 93 
2) 
rich vegetable mould accumulates, in which they luxuriate. 
Sometimes, however, I found them growing on the small 
lateral asperities of bare rocks, in the full blaze of the 
sun; but in this position they were of a very stunted 
growth, although flowering freely.’ 
Culture.—Many of these plants will grow when attached 
to a block of wood with a little sphagnum moss, and 
suspended from the roof; pot-culture, however, for the 
bulk of the kinds will be best, as they will not only in 
this manner produce the finest blossoms, but will require 
less constant attention at the hands of the cultivator. For 
potting material, use good fibrous peat from which all the 
fine soil has been well beaten ; add to this some chopped 
living sphagnum moss and some clean and sharp silver 
sand ; fill the pots at least two-thirds with drainage, and 
in potting let the rhizome sit upon the top of the soil, 
which should be elevated somewhat above the rim of the 
pot, in order to carry the water away quickly. If necessary 
to hold the plant firmly in the pot, a few stakes should be 
placed in along with the drainage, to which the pseudo- 
bulbs can be secured. Very much depends upon the amount 
of water given at different seasons—Cattleyas like an 
abundant supply of moisture during the growing season, 
and a nice, genial, moist atmosphere—but it should be 
given from the watering-can, and not from the syringe, for 
in the case of Cattleyas grown in pots we have frequently 
remarked that where regularly syringed they never either 
grow or flower so well. In the case of those kinds which 
are suspended from the roof in baskets or upon blocks of 
wood, there is less to fear from the syringe, so long as 
the water is not allowed to stand in the large, sheathing 
scales which envelop the young growths and flower-scapes. 
This, however, may easily occur with careless or indis- 
criminate syringing, and often proves fatal to young pseudo- 
