CHAPTER IV. 



HAVANA. 



Early on the morning of Sunday. Ma}' 21st, we found our- 

 selyes in yie\y of the Cuban coast, off the city of Matanzas, 

 back of which loomed high mountains, one raising" its majestic 

 top, fiat and massiye, above the clouds which hung over the 

 island. All day long the •• Emih' E. Johnson " sailed along 

 this picturesque coast with a light but fair wdnd, just a little 

 more than holding her own against the strong current of the 

 Gulf Stream, which sweeps the coast at the rate of three, and 

 in places perhaps four, knots per hour, x^n occasional village 

 was seen nestling at the foot of the hills, each hamlet with its 

 inevitable church on the one hand and barracks on the other. 



One who travels far from home is constantly reminded of 

 how little we realize the magnitude of countries, rivers, etc., 

 of which we seldom hear. Few persons, for example, are 

 aware of the fact that the island of Cuba is over seven hun- 

 dred miles long, and that one could travel in a straight line, 

 theoretically at least, a distance equal to that from New York 

 City to eastern Illinois, or from New Orleans to Quinc}', Illi- 

 nois, in going from one end of Cuba to the other. 



As we neared Havana, the towns along the coast became 

 larger and more pretentious. Then came charming countr}'' 

 villas, where the aristocrac\' of Havana retreat from business 

 cares. Telegraph lines, and perhaps telephones, connected 

 the metropolis with these suburban retreats. Finall}' the light- 

 house tower on Morro Castle loomed up in the mist}^ atmos- 

 phere, and the long line of fortifications came into view. 



As we neared the harbor entrance a little steam launch with 

 oflicials in uniform made its appearance off the point. A 

 fierce and sudden rain squall drove them back, and sent the 

 •• Emih- •' several miles to the eastward and southward. The 



