. 
Phaius, etc), has led to the production of tremendous flowers (some of ten and 
eleven inches in width, and even larger, have been exhibited in Brisbane), and of 
wonderful colour variations, it has, in my opinion, tended somewhat to reduce the 
substance of the blooms. Most of the natural species have flowers of good firm 
texture of sepal and petal, but some of the later hybrids, particularly the tri- 
generic and quatrogeneric hybrids, show a tendency towards flimsiness of texture 
and a sloppiness of form which detracts from their appearance. However, you 
can’t have everything, and it is certainly a source of joy to produce a Cattleya 
hybrid a foot, or thereabouts, across. 
Although the hybrids are more generally grown, many of the natural species are 
equal to any of their aristocratic relations, and when the opportunity offers every 
orchid grower should add to his collection one or more plants of the species I 
have set out hereunder. 
Most beginners at orchid growing have the idea that the Cattleya type are difficult 
orchids to grow. Actually they can be numbered among the easiest of the orchid 
genera to cultivate. The hybrids, having been raised under artificial conditions, 
are more easily grown than some of the species, but the latter when once estab- 
lished grow remarkably well. So long as attention is given to the four essentials, 
they should not present any difficulty. These essentials are— 
Light Temperature 
Water Protection from pests 
Of these, the first is, in my opinion, the most important. No Cattleya will grow 
sturdily and bloom satisfactorily unless it is grown in a place where it has good 
light at all times. If you grow them under glass (and this is not by any means 
essential—even so far south as Sydney), you should hang them so that they are as 
close to the glass as you can get them without scorching the leaves—and even a 
little mild sunburn does not seem to do the plants any lasting harm, and, more- 
over, it appears to encourage them to flower. Personally, (though I know a num- 
ber of growers will disagree with me), I like a Cattleya house to have semi-trans- 
parent walls as well as roof. I have experimented with a glass roof and sides of a 
patent substance known as windolite, and have been entirely satisfied with 
the results. This material allows abundant light to enter and at the same time 
keeps out the dangerous infra-red rays (or, at least, that is claimed for it). But 
whatever form of house you have for your Cattleyas, if you see that it is light 
and airy you will not go far wrong. 
As regards water. Reams of paper and gallons of ink must have been expended on 
this subject. The mistake that most commentators make is that they try to set 
out arbitrary rules for application in all circumstances. This is obviously im- 
practicable. The amount of water to be applied to the plants in a Cattleya house 
must vary—(1) According to the nature of the house itself, (2) According to 
the atmospheric conditions prevailing in the house and in the open air outside, 
(3) According to the origin and condition of the particular plants themselves, 
(4) According to the type of potting compost and its container, (5) According 
to the season. 
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