be slight, but as the new growths lengthen out and commence to send forth their 
roots the quantity can be steadily increased. Should cold conditions return for a 
day or two occasionally, the watering must be stopped at once, only sufficient 
being given to keep the plant from going back. When the Summer has fully ar- 
rived the new bulbs will be well developed, and watering can then be done daily 
and in copious quantities. When the growth is complete (or nearly so in some 
cases) the flower sheath should make an appearance from the top of the psuedo- 
bulb. Watering can be continued in quantity until the buds come up through 
the sheath and swell to bursting point. After flowering, the plant should be rested 
for a while. A healthy, vigorous plant will sometimes make two new growths 
from each of one or more growing points in one year. The main thing is to watch 
the plant. If, after flowering and resting for a few weeks, it commences to make 
a new growth, the watering can be increased again—but unless I can see a good 
chance of the bulb being matured and flowered before at least early in the ensuing 
Winter, I am disinclined to push the growth too much. It is better to have a 
strong growth and a good flower in Spring than a weedy growth and a poor flower 
in Winter. Hybrids, through their complex mixture of parentage, occasionally 
vary from the usual rules. Some of these seem to grow throughout the year. 
While I do not do anything to hinder this tendency—I do not encourage it, but 
endeavour to provide some sort of a resting period by keeping the plant absolutely 
dry for a while after it has flowered, even though it has shown its wish to make a 
new bulb. 
In the Winter a damping once a fortnight, with perhaps a light spray occasionally 
when dry winds blow, is all that they require. 
I commend these remarks on watering to the consideration of all growers con- 
templating the cultivation of Cattleyas and their associated types. The informa- 
tion given should enable them to decide for themselves just what to do in the 
conditions in which they will be growing their plants. 
TEMPERATURE. 
The ideal temperature range for Cattleyas is from about 50 degrees Fhr. mini- 
mum in the Winter to approximately 75° in the Summer. Slight variations 
one way or the other do not matter—in fact, with species such as Warscewiczii, 
Mendelii, Morganiae and others from the high spurs of the Andes, an occasional 
lower minimum than 50° does them no harm, and actually may do them good. The 
Sydney, and particularly the Brisbane, climatic conditions are very suitable for 
the cultivation of these orchids in ordinary bushhouses—and in the far North 
nothing but cool bushhouse treatment should be needed. A glasshouse is an ad- 
vantage in so far as it enables the temperature to be maintained somewhat con- 
stant by minimising the effect of sudden rises and falls, moreover it provides a 
protection against winds and draughts. In arranging Cattleyas in a house, an effort 
should be made to give the plants which like warmth the warmest position and to 
reserve the cooler spots for those which come from the higher altitudes. Usually 
growers, especially the less experienced ones, do not consider this point and just 
deposit a fresh plant in any old place which may be vacant. Certain species are 
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