My own experience has been, that, in Brisbane, Cymbidium species (and hybrids, 
too) grow excellently, well out in the open where they get some little shade from 
the heat of the midday sun—preferably from the foliage of a tree. The only species 
which has failed to respond to that method of cultivation for me has been that 
notorious breaker of orchid-growers’ hearts, Cymbidium Huttonii. Even it seemed 
to improve for a while after I got it out into the open, and I am inclined to be- 
lieve that its ultimate demise was more due to its cussedness than to any particular 
dissatisfaction with its situation. 
Being a hardy epiphyte, the Cymbidium can be grown on a block or raft, in bas- 
kets, or in pots or wooden tubs. For small plants, pots are the most suitable, and 
for very large plants wooden tubs are excellent. Their root system is extensive, so 
that they require ample room, but the best results are obtained from under-potting 
rather than over-potting. The ideal is to have a pot which will comfortably ac- 
commodate the roots and allow of a reasonable thickness of compost below and 
around the plant. Opinions vary considerably as to the best compost to use for 
these plants. I have experimented with the following: 
(1) Equal parts leaf-mould, sand and turfy-loam. 
(2) Similar to (1), with the addition of a liberal seasoning of bone-meal. 
(3) Similar to (1), with the addition of about 25% dry cow-dung. 
(4) One part staghorn peat chopped and shredded, one part osmunda fibre, one 
part leaf-mould, one part sand, and one part dried dung, with a little pow- 
dered brick and charcoal mixed in, together with a little chopped sphagnum. 
(5) One part each peat, osmunda, todea, loam and dung and leaf-mould. 
(6) Polypodium fibre with good drainage of charcoal and crocks. 
Frankly, I can see little, if any, difference in the results obtainable from these 
composts, and I have come to the conclusion that any or all of them will serve. 
It is fair to say that the two plants potted in compost (6) have only been so 
potted a comparatively short time and they have made exceptionally vigorous 
growth. 
I am of the considered opinion that you cannot overwater a well drained and 
healthy Cymbidium during the warmer months. A thorough soaking each morn- 
ing from the first warm days of Spring right up to the first cold days of Autumn 
will produce a healthy and vigorous plant. If you then slacken off the water 
until the winter comes and keep the plants comparatively dry throughout 
the cold weather the growths will mature and you should have a wealth of blossom 
in due season. Only from well grown vigorous healthy plants can you expect to 
get perfect flowers. 
The following species are either in general cultivation or are worthy of it for one 
reason or another:— 
CYMBIDIUM AFFINE. Native of Shillong and Assam. 
Pseudobulbs spherical, about three inches in height with long strap-shaped leaves 
in parallel rows. Flowers borne two or three at a time on short, erect scapes. 
84 
