As I said before, the genus is wide spread, being found in England, America, 
Siberia, Japan, China, Tibet, India, Malaya, Cochin-China, the Malay Archi- 
pelago, including the Philippines, and New Guinea. To date no true species of 
Cypripedium has been found in Australia, but one species of an allied genus of the 
same tribe (Cypripedileae) has been reported from North Queensland (A postasia 
stylidiodes). I have always had the belief that when a thorough botanical 
exploration is made of the great tract of tropical jungle country high up in the 
Cape York Peninsula, there is a strong possibility that an Australian species of 
Cypripedium will be found. I may say here that I have on several occasions heard 
of Cypripediums being found in the scrubs of Southern Queensland, but upon 
investigation every such story has, of course, been proved a fabrication. 
CULTURE. 
For purpose of cultivation it is desirable that Cypripediums be divided into three 
groups. The first group requires a temperature minimum of not less than 60 
degrees. This includes most of the mottled leaved species, such as Lawrenceanum, 
barbatum, and callosum, and also all those from the tropical areas, such as Stonei, 
Rothschildianum, Sanderianum, Philippinense, Parishii, Lowii, etc. The second 
group requires a minimum temperature of about 50 degrees. This includes bella- 
tulum, Charlesworthii, niveum, concolor, exul, hirsutissimum, and Spicerianum. 
The third group is the cool growing class, and its minimum temperature should be 
about 48 degrees, but in some few cases a temperature of 40 degrees as a minimum 
will not matter. This group includes (among others) insigne (and its varieties), 
villosum, Boxallii, nitens, etc. 
In the warmer parts of Brisbane, practically all the Cypripediums will grow in an 
ordinary bushhouse, though those included in group one and some of those in 
group two do better in a glasshouse. In the cooler parts of Brisbane, and in 
Sydney, all the Cypripediums will be best served by glasshouse treatment, those of 
the first group being the better for hothouse treatment in the Winter months. 
The beginner is advised to restrict his early efforts to those Cypripediums which 
belong to the third group—and these actually include some of the finest species. 
As his collection grows and he becomes more accustomed to handling plants re- 
quiring special treatment he can venture on the second group and, later still, when 
he has the necessary accommodation he can undertake those of the first group with 
every confidence of succeeding with them. 
COMPOST 
Many varied composts have been used and recommended for growing Cypri- 
pediums—in fact, almost every grower has his own formula. My own experience 
is that the Cypripediums in the different groups, set out above, each do best in a 
particular compost of their own. Those in the first group seem to do best in a 
fibrous compost and a mixture of two parts chopped osmunda with one part of 
sphagnum moss. The drainage must be perfect, and a little charcoal mixed with 
the compost will help to prevent sourness. Over potting should be avoided, but 
reasonable root room is advisable. With this compost, tank water is preferable, 
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