26 THE ROSE GARDEN. 



as possible, to the fertilizing influences of the sun and air. To accomplish this, the 

 ground should be dug one spit deep, or more; but instead of laying it level at the 

 surface, let it be thrown up in ridges in the roughest manner possible. In this state 

 it may lie till the depth of winter, fully exposed to the action of sun, air, rain, and 

 frost. The surface of the ridges will gradually crumble down, and the soil become 

 pulverized. Now for the next step. What description of soils or manures can 

 be brought to bear upon it with the greatest prospect of improvement ? Chalk, 

 lime, peat, sand, and burnt earth will improve it; and stable manure, with any 

 decayed vegetable substances, the refuse of the garden, may be added to advan- 

 tage. And now is the time to apply these. First level the soil, and lay on the 

 top a good dressing of any of the above soils that may be accessible, or 

 thought most suitable. Having done this, in the next place trench the ground 

 two spit deep, well mixing these foreign matters with the staple in the operation. 

 The ground is laid level this time, and when finished, the places where the Roses 

 are to be planted should be marked out, and the holes dug, the earth taken out 

 being laid up in ridges round their sides. The holes should remain open till the 

 time of planting, that the soil, placed in immediate contact with the roots, may 

 become further mellowed. From the end of February till the end of March is a 

 good time for spring planting, choosing an opportunity when the ground works well. 



But some gardens are so situated that it is not easy to drain them. A make- 

 shift system may be adopted in such cases. The soil may be thrown out of the 

 walks in the immediate vicinity of the plants, to a good depth ; and loose stones, 

 or rubble of any description, be placed at the bottom, covering with bushes, over 

 which the soil may be restored. Among the substances mentioned above as 

 calculated to improve wet or clayey soils, is burnt earth. Of its value in the im- 

 provement of such for Rose-culture I have been an eye-witness ; and in a Letter 

 published in the Gardeners' Chronicle in 1844 (p. 67), I gave an account of the 

 results of its application to some Dwarf Roses. Subsequent experiments have 

 increased my faith in it : and as the burning of earth is considered by many to be 

 a difficult process, I shall give a succinct account of the plan pursued here. 



Earth may be burnt at any season of the year. It has been the custom here, for 

 some years, on the decline of spring, when the operations of pruning, grafting, &c. 

 are ended, instead of suffering the rough branches to lie about, presenting an 

 untidy appearance, to collect them in a heap. A wall of turf, about three feet 

 high, of a semi-circular form, is then built round them. The branches are set 

 on fire, and when about half burnt down, seed-weeds, and such rubbish as collects 

 in every garden and will not readily decompose, are thrown on the top, and earth 

 is gradually cast up as the fire breaks through. 



During the first two or three days great care is requisite to keep the pile on 

 fire. Here is the point where many fail. They allow the flame to break through 

 and expend itself before the heap is thoroughly kindled. Constant watching is 

 necessary at this juncture. As the fire breaks through, a layer of bushes and 

 weeds should be added, and then a layer of earth. Follow up this plan, and the fire 



