THE ROSE GARDEN. 103 



advanced in our Chapter on Pruning. We now shorten the branches at the 

 points where the lines intersect ; and, hy continuing to practice disbudding, we 

 obtain a handsome and well-flowered plant the following summer. 



After it is pruned, the shoots should be staked out at as great distances as pos- 

 sible : those that are left long ought to be made to lie almost horizontal, by bending 

 them down, that the buds may be induced to break regularly from their summit to 

 the base. Great care is required in this operation, as the wood of some kinds is ex- 

 tremely brittle. If, however, the long shoots be allowed to maintain an upright 

 position, the probability is, that two or three buds only at their top will break, 

 which, by their exuberant growth, keep the lower eyes dormant, which are re- 

 quired to form a compact and well-regulated plant. But it is not necessary to 

 keep them long bent ; for so soon as the eyes have burst, the shoots may be tied 

 up again. With regard to training, each cultivator will likely acquire a plan of 

 his own. But of this hereafter. 



Watering should be carefully attended to throughout the growing season. The 

 quantity to be given must depend mainly on the state of the plants, the weather, 

 and the porosity of the soil. As a general rule, Roses require but little water 

 during autumn and winter. In spring, when the buds first break, occasional 

 syringings are of infinite service. As the plants advance in growth, thereby ac- 

 quiring a greater surface of foliage, and as the sun gains greater power, the quan- 

 tity may be increased ; and when in full leaf, and throughout the growing season, 

 an abundance should be given. In making these remarks, we are supposing the 

 water to have free egress through the rubble at the bottom of the pots, a condition 

 essential for the health and perfect growth of the plants. 



Manure water is found beneficial. The use of it imparts a freshness and dark 

 green hue to the foliage, and increases the vigour of the plants. It should not, 

 however, be given too frequently, nor in too concentrated a form. If guano is 

 used, an ounce to a gallon of water is sufficient. It is well to watch the effects of 

 the dose given, to guard against an overgrowth, and regulate the supply accord- 

 ingly. Perhaps the plants cannot grow too vigorously, provided the wood can 

 be well ripened before winter. There is the point. But, as we cannot ensure a 

 sunny autumn, which is necessary for the perfecting of strong shoots, a moderate 

 growth is safer. Camphor-water an eminent Rose Amateur has advised me, 

 from his own experience, to try ; but I am as yet unable to publish any satisfactory 

 results. It is said to add new brilliancy to the flowers. Certainly, it is a safe ap- 

 plication, and no injurious influences are likely to arise from its use. 



In addition to our pains-taking to promote the growth of our plants, we have 

 to guard against enemies and diseases. The Rose grub, wdiich is most prevalent 

 early in the season, requires close watching, and should be destroyed by hand- 

 picking. I have picked a score off a single Pot-plant. Wherever a curled leaf, 

 or shoot without a growing point, meets the eye, this destructive insect will be 

 found. The mischief has perhaps been done in part, for it is seldom that he can 



