THE ROSE GARDEN. 105 



but it lias now become an important part of the business. If skilfully and taste- 

 fully done, it greatly enhances the beauty of our favourites : if otherwise, it has a 

 contrary tendency. Often we see well-grown plants, which reflect great credit 

 on the cultivator, spoiled in the training. To manage this properly, the shoots 

 should be tied out to sticks immediately that the plants are pruned ; and when the 

 newly-formed shoots are three or four inches long, they should be tied out also, 

 training according to some preconceived plan. 



We agree that the fewer sticks used the better ; but we fear Roses cannot be 

 managed nicely without the help of some. We do not like to see a plant with 

 as many sticks as it has flowers, and almost a hedge-stake used to support a 

 branch which a privet-twig would hold in place. This is bungling and unsightly, 

 equalled only by the want of design often apparent in the training. The sticks 

 should be chosen as slight as will support the flowers, and the shape of the 

 plant should be determined before we commence to fashion it. Not that we are 

 obliged to follow such form, if, by any occurrence, we discover one more suitable 

 in an after stage of growth. The sticks used in tying out and training should 

 be painted green, as near the colour of the foliage as possible, duller, not brighter, 

 or they will create a glare, and detract from the beauty of the plant. To us the 

 system of a tall shoot in the centre of the plant, with all the others disposed 

 around it gradually decreasing in height as they recede from the centre — in a 

 word, a pyramid, presents the most pleasing object. See No. 28 ; which is a 

 newly-pruned plant grown and trained on this system. 



Immediately after pruning, we draw the lower shoots downwards over the rim 

 of the pot, just beneath which a wire should pass, to which the bast may be fast- 

 ened. When the plants are of three or four years' growth, and have been pre- 

 viously trained upon this plan, tier above tier of branches may be arranged, each 

 decreasing in circumference in the ascent, till we terminate in a point. Trained 

 on this plan, the plants require constant care and attention during the season of 

 growth to keep them well balanced. Strong shoots must be stopped as occasion 

 may require, and weak ones encouraged. 



A round bush is quite in character in some instances, especially for such kinds 

 as are of lowly growth. 



The plants may be trained to a face, the tallest shoots ranged at the back, the 

 others gradually decreasing in height as they approach the front. This method 

 has been successfully carried out at the various horticultural exhibitions, where 

 only one side of the plant, or at most three-quarters of it, is presented to view. 



Pruning may be applied here as elsewhere, excepting that, the growth of Pot- 

 Roses being usually less vigorous than that of kinds under common treatment, 

 they require rather closer pruning. Disbudding should be practised in Pot- 

 culture especially : it is of great assistance in obtaining well-formed plants, which 

 we expect to see when grown in pots. 



But the second season has passed away, and we have entered upon the third. 



