VII STOCKS 117 



the roots which are to be utilised are at the bottom, and 

 the plants trimmed. All roots must be cut cleanly off, 

 except those proceeding from the very base of the plants, 

 and those retained shortened to one uniform length. The 

 growth at the tops may also be shortened to two or three 

 buds, and the plants then transferred to their budding 

 quarters. Here they should be planted about two inches 

 deep, care being taken if possible to spread the roots out 

 in ever}^ direction, as few fresh ones will come from the 

 base of the cutting, and if there is a side on which there 

 is no roots the plant will never be firm against the wind 

 from that quarter. If the plants are permanently to 

 remain where they are budded, the distances between 

 each will depend upon the varieties of Roses worked on 

 them, as explained on p. 47. But if it is intended 

 to move them after the maiden growth of the Rose, 

 nine inches apart between the plants, more or less, 

 accordingly as they are intended for Teas or strong 

 H.P.s, will do for distance. 



It is plain that by thus raising our own briar cuttings 

 we lose a year compared with the plan of buying them 

 ready rooted. This difficulty should be overcome by 

 buying rooted cuttings the first year, as well as setting 

 a supply at home. An amateur commencing business 

 had better buy a double supply of cuttings the first 

 year, half rooted for budding the next year, and half 

 unrooted for the year after. 



Manetti cuttings, which are useful to an exhibitor for 

 the production of early maiden blooms of the H.P.s, may 

 be raised and treated in exactly the same way. They 

 strike much easier than the briar cuttings, and there 

 should be very few which fail to root. 



I have never gone the length of tr3dng to raise briar 

 seedlings, as they are cheap to purchase in quantity, and 



