viii PROPAGATION 137 



genuine Rose bushes — Roses on their own roots, which 

 cannot be killed by frost unless root and all perish 

 together and whose suckers are welcome as they are 

 only increase to the Roses." 



The simple answer to this is, that not only does it 

 take longer thus to form plants which will give fair 

 flowers, but that it is a fact that Roses on their own 

 roots do not grow so well or flower so well as those 

 which are budded on stronger rooting stocks. Never- 

 theless some varieties, especially of the free and hardy 

 garden sorts, will answer in this way, and the best 

 modes of striking the cuttings shall therefore be 

 described. 



The usual time for taking them is November. 

 They should be prepared of as ripe wood as can be 

 found of the current year's growth, about ten inches in 

 length. The thorns had better be trimmed off, but 

 none of the buds as all these will help if they grow. 

 If a small portion of " heel " or older wood be left at 

 the bottom, the likelihood of striking will be increased. 

 If taken so early that the leaves yet remain, all should 

 be removed save the two top ones, and in this case a 

 good soaking with water should be given after the 

 cuttings are set out. 



They should be set deep, only two buds showing 

 above the soil, in double rows as recommended for 

 briar and manetti cuttings. It will be a great help to 

 the emission of roots if the shoots rest firmly at the 

 bottom upon some sharp sand or sifted cocoa-fibre dust. 

 Attention must be paid to them, as to briar cuttings, 

 after sharp frosts which lift the shoots in their holes. In 

 the winter they may be gently pressed down again, but 

 if thus raised by frost later when possibly roots may have 

 formed, it will be better to tread the soil firmly round 



