Propagation and Renewal 243 



but in hedge-row or hill training the crowns are higher 

 and allowance must be made for them. After the leaves 

 and weeds have dried, they may be burned where they 

 lie, or raked and carried off the field, or left on the field 

 without burning. Burning destroys insects and dis- 

 eases and clears the land of weeds; but it may injure 

 the crowns, and it destroys mulch and humus-making 

 material. Hill or hedge-row plants are more likely to 

 be injured by burning than matted row plants, since the 

 crowns are more exposed. The older the plantation the 

 greater the danger, for the same reason. Wait until the 

 mowings are thoroughly dry and preferably when there is 

 a brisk breeze, so that the fire will sweep quickly across 

 the field. Start the fire at several places on the windward 

 side so the whole field will be afire as nearly as possible 

 at the same time ; a slow, creeping fire injures the plants. 

 Back fires should be started near fences or orchards, first 

 burning a few rows, then back-firing the whole field. 

 Where a heavy winter mulch has been retained about the 

 plants to protect the berries, it may be best to rake part 

 of it into the alleys before burning, and to mix the mowings 

 with it. Loosen the mulch with a fork or tedder; if it 

 hugs the ground the heat and steam remain close to the 

 plants and injure them. Unless mulch material is abun- 

 dant and cheap, it is more economical to rake it off and 

 stack it for use another year, than to burn it. When but 

 little or no winter mulch is used it is desirable to scatter 

 a little dry straw over the rows to facilitate burning. 

 It is necessary to burn when the mowings and mulch 

 are quite dry, but there is less danger of injuring the plants 

 if the soil is wet. If a good stand was not secured the first 

 season, do not risk burning; the mowings and mulch 

 should be raked into the middles and burned there, or raked 



