INTRODUCTION 7 



titles of seed may be sown in pots or boxes in frames or green- 

 houses. 



Cuttings are usually inserted in sandy soil in a cold frame or 

 in a warm greenhouse, July and August being the most suitable 

 time. Grafting is carried on indoors in spring, the stocks having 

 been established in pots during the previous autumn. 



Young Plants (Nursery Treatment). 



Seedlings raised in pots or boxes should be lined out about 

 one inch apart in nursery rows before the roots are able to become 

 twisted or interlaced. Those raised in outdoor beds may be 

 allowed to remain one or two years in the beds, according to 

 density. They should eventually be lined out in borders, the 

 plants being placed about 3 in. apart in rows 9-12 in. apart. In 

 this position they may remain for one or two years. Plants 

 9-12 in. high are usually large enough for planting under sylvi- 

 cultural conditions, but larger plants maybe planted in parks and 

 gardens where they can receive individual attention. Young 

 trees left in nursery borders should be transplanted every alter- 

 nate year until they are placed in permanent positions. Many 

 conifers are, however, difficult to establish after they have at- 

 tained a height of several feet, and it is usually wise to find them 

 permanent positions whilst they are quite small. 



Permanent Planting. 



Trees that are planted in gardens or parks are usually placed 

 in well- worked ground. In such cases the principal danger to 

 guard against is deep planting. When large holes have been 

 made for the plants they should be filled up and allowed to settle 

 for several weeks before the trees are planted. At planting time 

 the upper roots should not be covered by more than an inch or 

 two of soil. Trees placed under woodland conditions are often 

 badly treated. The worst kind of planting, probably, is notching. 

 By this method a small opening is made in the ground and the roots 

 of the young plant are pushed in. The hole is often too small to 

 admit the roots, which are therefore doubled up. Such plants 

 are often difficult to establish, and there are frequently consider- 

 able losses. By breaking up a small area of ground with 

 a mattock or pickaxe and planting with a spade better results 

 are secured. Where the land is moderately even it pays in 

 forest planting to plough the ground, or at any rate strips of 

 ground, for the plants, and where a hard pan occurs a few inches 

 below the surface it is wise to use a subsoiler on the plough. Sub- 

 soiling will often do away with the necessity for draining. After 

 ploughing, planting can be carried out at a much faster rate than 

 in hard ground, and the young plants make more rapid progress. 

 In all cases deep planting must be avoided. 



