Orchard and Garden Management 277 



let them do so. And the two men should not quarrel 

 over their methods. Both are right. The writer 

 would not for himself practice heading-in with any 

 except some of the too luxuriant-growing varieties 

 of the Japanese class and their hybrids. 



Pruning should be done as early in spring as pos- 

 sible, before the sap starts. Summer pinching is a 

 good thing, theoretically, but I do not know of anyone 

 who does it on a scale large enough to prove its gen- 

 eral value. The use of the pruning knife and saw on 

 plum trees should be governed by the same princi- 

 ples and by the same good, practical judgment which 

 furnish the basis for successful pruning everywhere. 

 It must be remembered, however, that some varieties 

 of the plum, especially those of the Japanese class, are 

 subject to exudations of gum, which at times are detri- 

 mental to the health of the tree. On this account 

 large wounds are especially to be avoided. Severe 

 wounds should always be covered with grafting wax 

 for the same reason. 



The formation of a suitable head on a young tree is 

 a matter of some difficulty, especially with the Ameri- 

 canas, and with some other of the native species. The 

 best way to begin is to select only clean, strong, two- 

 year-old trees with good roots, and to plant these with 

 much care, to the end that they make a vigorous, clean 

 growth during the first few years. If a tree becomes 

 stunted when first set out, the head is almost sure to 

 be bad. The best way to do with Americanas and 

 some other related sorts is to cut them back nearly to 

 the ground (being careful, of course, not to get below 

 the inserted bud), and to allow a new shoot to grow. 

 This can be kept straight, and can be cut back for the 

 top whenever desired. Time will be gained in this 

 way if the tree really promises at the outset to be 

 refractory. 



