On I he Pyramids of Egypt. 195 



ing the enormous masses used in its construction, affected every 

 one of us ; but it was an impression of awe and fear rather than 

 of pleasure. We had heard the pyramids described as huge ob- 

 jects whicli gave no satisfaction to the spectator, on account of 

 their barliarous shape, and formal appearance; yet to us it ap- 

 peared hardly possible, that persons susceptible of any feeling of 

 sublimity could behold them unmoved. With what amazement 

 did we survey the vast surface that was presented to us when we 

 arrived at this stupendous monument, which seemed to reach 

 the clouds ! Here and there appeared some Arab guides upon 

 the immense masses about us, like so many pygmies, waiting to 

 show the way up to the summit 



The mode of ascent has been frequently described ; and yet, 

 from the questions that are often proposed to travellers, it does 

 not appear to be generally understood. The reader may imagine 

 himself to be upon a staircase, every step of which, to a man of 

 middle stature, is nearly breast high; and the breadth of each 

 step is equal to its height : consequently the footing is secure. 

 Where the stones are decayed, caution may be required ; but 

 upon the whole the means of ascent are such that almost every 

 one mav accomplish it . 



At length we reached the topmost tier, to the great delight and 

 satisfaction of all the party. Here we found a platform thirty- 

 two feet square; consisting of nine large stones, — though much in- 

 ferior in size to some used in the construction of this pyramid. . ., . 

 The view from this eminence amply fulfilled our expectations ; 

 nor do the accounts v/Jiich have been given of it, as it appears at 

 this season of the year [August 23d], exaggerate the novelty and 

 grandeur of the sight. All the region towards Cairo and the 

 Delta resembled a sea, covered with innumerable islands. Fo- 

 rests of palm-trees were seen standing in the water ; the inun- 

 dation spreading over th,e land where they stood, so as to give 

 them an appearance of growing in the flood. To the north, no- 

 thing could be discerned, but a watery surface thus diversified by 

 plantations and by villages. To the south we saw the pyramids 

 of Saccara ; and, upon the east of these, smaller monuments of 

 the same kind, nearer to the Nile. An appearance of ruins 

 migiit indeed be traced the whole way from the pyramids of 

 Djiza to those of Saccara ; as if they had been once connected, 

 80 as to constitute one vast cemetery. Beyond the pyramids of 

 Saccara, we could perceive the distant mountains of the Said ; 

 and up'»n an eminence near the Libyan side of the Nile appeared 

 a monastery of considerable size. Towards the west and SW 

 the eye ranged over the great Libyan Desert, extending to the 

 utmost verge of the horizon, without a single object to interrupt 



N 2 the 



